How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature
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Glenda Copeland - 22 Feb 2010 23:07 GMT How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?
My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.
When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.
This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the thermostat to 85°.
I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?
Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.
What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set point before turning off?
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net - 22 Feb 2010 23:14 GMT On Feb 22, 5:07 pm, Glenda Copeland <gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied- Address.invalid> wrote:
> How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set > point before turning off? You have to turn the mounting of the coil spring that the mercury bulb is connected to. I don't have that type of thermostat any more, so I can't give you detailed instructions. But, I'm sure others here will, give them a few hours.
RBM - 22 Feb 2010 23:48 GMT > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > set > point before turning off? It's probably easier to just replace the mercury thermostat with a digital. It'll be more accurate and have less temperature fluctuation. The little pointy thing is supposed to be aiming at whatever current amount the device it's controlling is drawing. It may be a relay or a zone valve, so you'd have to know this, then find the thing, then find the label on it where it give it's current draw. You could just point the thing far to one side, then see how it affects the temperature, then far to the other side, and make whatever adjustments you need. Keep in mind also, that Honeywell T-87 yo-yo thermostats must be level as well. There are marks on it, that you hold a plumb bob up to ,to properly level it.
Lp1331 1p1331 - 23 Feb 2010 00:23 GMT The adjustment you are talkig about s called a heat anticipator. RBM is correct in that is adjusted to the amperage draw of whatever the thermostat is controlling. The others are also correct in that digitals are much more accurate, and now a lot of them actually cost less than mercury bulb mechanical types. Larry
ransley - 23 Feb 2010 00:59 GMT > The adjustment you are talkig about s called a heat anticipator. RBM is > correct in that is adjusted to the amperage draw of whatever the > thermostat is controlling. The others are also correct in that digitals > are much more accurate, and now a lot of them actually cost less than > mercury bulb mechanical types. Larry The heat anticipator is not whats off with that issue, the anticipator is correctly set to what it controls and controls how wide a swing you get before the thermostat comes on and goes off, the issue is its 10f off which happens with those dial units if someone messed with it not knowing how to calibrate it to the thermometers "temp" or forced it over to one side. Honywell used to supply with every round thermostat a little wrench that slips over the nut so you can turn the dial to get it set to run as the thermometer temp states, its a real real thin wrench but maybe Ace or a heating supply house has one. Often they wernt packed in the box so you had to ask and maybe pay 35c for one. One of mine is off now and I cant find my wrench, its off 6f, but it works fine with a 2f swing, so get used to it or get a wrench. Now if temp swings to much from on to off, then look at the anticipator. Those units are foolproof in design, and would outlast digital, they are not made anymore because of the Mercury bulb and disposal concerns. They still make the round style, but took out the mercury.
Sam E - 23 Feb 2010 20:42 GMT >The adjustment you are talkig about s called a heat anticipator. RBM is >correct in that is adjusted to the amperage draw of whatever the >thermostat is controlling. The others are also correct in that digitals >are much more accurate, and now a lot of them actually cost less than >mercury bulb mechanical types. Larry Digital thermostats can be very complicated to operate. Check on that before buying.
Marina - 23 Feb 2010 00:10 GMT > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set > temperature? [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach > the set point before turning off? You can change it to digital therm. on your own. I did it so anyone can do it. Just don't allow the wires to fall back into the wall. Seeing that winter is half over, I'd wait until you don't need the heat. Then if you mess up, it won't matter so much.
Tell your husband that just because it's pointed to 85, it doesn't mean the air temp is 85. Get a room thermometer and set it near the thermostat. Then show him the thermometer's reading of the air temp. And tell him to mind his own business.... he he.
HeyBub - 23 Feb 2010 01:23 GMT > Tell your husband that just because it's pointed to 85, it doesn't > mean the air temp is 85. Get a room thermometer and set it near the > thermostat. Then show him the thermometer's reading of the air temp. > And tell him to mind his own business.... he he. Tell him the house has to warm up before you can.
Bob F - 23 Feb 2010 00:23 GMT > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set > temperature? [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach > the set point before turning off? I don't have that particular unit, but on mine, it looks like the is a nut behind the metal thermo spring that could be turned a bit to calibrate it. What you need is to turn it in the direction that makes the mercury switch less level - just a little. If such an adjustment is not evident, bending the metal where the switch attaches to the thermospring could do it.
The copper pointer at the bottom probably adjusts the difference between turn on and turn off.
trader4@optonline.net - 23 Feb 2010 13:51 GMT > > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set > > temperature? [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Agree with you and Ransley. First thing is to make sure it's level. Then if necessary you need a thin wrench that you can hold the nut with so the mechanism doesn't move while you rotate the dial.
All in all, considering the conveniences of a programmable digital one, I'd just replace it. Wouldn't it be nice to set the heat back at night and have it come back up shortly before you wake up?
bud-- - 23 Feb 2010 03:31 GMT >>> How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set >>> temperature? [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > level. Then if necessary you need a thin wrench that you can hold > the nut with so the mechanism doesn't move while you rotate the dial. I agree that checking if it is level is a starting point. If it is level, you could shift it off level in the correct direction as an alternative to finding the real thin wrench that is used to change the calibration. To change the leveling you may have to unscrew 2 or 3 recessed screws to remove the thermostat from the baseplate, and loosen the screws holding the baseplate to the wall. The baseplate has level marks.
 Signature bud--
Glenda Copeland - 24 Feb 2010 00:46 GMT > To change the leveling you may have to unscrew 2 or 3 > recessed screws to remove the thermostat from the baseplate, and loosen > the screws holding the baseplate to the wall. The baseplate has level marks. Wonderful information.
You've explained items (recessed screws, level marks, etc.) that I could see but did not understand the use or function.
Thanks for helping me.
ransley - 23 Feb 2010 17:38 GMT On Feb 23, 7:51 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
> > > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set > > > temperature? [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I have nothing against technology, I have all sorts of stuff, the round honywell is is even in the museum of modern art. Its a classic, I can adjust it, calibrate it, set anything with ease, now my digital if I dont have my manual I cant adjust temp swing or calibrate the thermometer and I dont know where my manual is anymore. My round Honywell has setback, I set it back, it has advance, I advance it. It will outlast new stuff.
BQ340 - 23 Feb 2010 00:28 GMT > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set > point before turning off? 1st check that it is level (across the top 2 posts that hold the trim ring on).
MikeB
Tony Hwang - 23 Feb 2010 01:35 GMT > How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set > point before turning off? Hi, First thing first. Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately? Sounds like good cleaning and calibration is needed.
Lp1331 1p1331 - 23 Feb 2010 03:31 GMT This doesn't sound like the OP's problem, but I just thought I'd throw this out as a FYI. About 12 years or so ago, I ran into a round Honeywell T87 that I had installed the year before, and something had happened to the mercury. Instead of it being a shiny silver, it looked like molten lead, and acted about the same. Normally,as soon as the bulb gets the least bit off level either way, the mercury will roll in the lower direction and turn the unit off or on. On this, it wouldn't move until the bulb was slanted all the way, and it moved like a glob instead of a fluid. For all the temperature control it did, it might as well have been a toggle switch. I replaced it under warranty. But the really strange thing was, over a relatively short time, I ran into two others, both also T87's that were exactly the same way, and haven't seen any more since. They always say things like that come in threes. FWIW, the first was on a gas wall furnace, one of the others was on a gas central, though the call was for the a/c, and the other an electric central, and I don't remember if it was an a/c or heat call. Larry
Glenda Copeland - 23 Feb 2010 06:07 GMT > Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately? It's our first winter in this house and it's all the time so far.
Bob F - 23 Feb 2010 15:42 GMT >> Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately? > > It's our first winter in this house and it's all the time so far. Worst case (Or maybe simplest), you could just tilt the unit ( Twist it on the wall) to adjust it.
Stormin Mormon - 23 Feb 2010 13:33 GMT First, make sure the thermostat is level. If it's tilted, it won't work right.
 Signature Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
"Glenda Copeland" <gscopeland@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message news:ad9439a155dc6089f1d3d8769a4b9af6@tioat.net... How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?
My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.
When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.
This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the thermostat to 85°.
I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?
Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.
What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set point before turning off?
Glenda Copeland - 23 Feb 2010 16:14 GMT > First, make sure the thermostat is level. The word "Honeywell" in the center is perfectly level.
harry - 23 Feb 2010 19:02 GMT On Feb 22, 11:07 pm, Glenda Copeland <gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied- Address.invalid> wrote:
> How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set > point before turning off? The problem you have is called hysteresis. When the temperature rises the 'stat switches off & the temp. falls but the stat does not close at the same temperature as when it was rising. The hysteresis should only be a couple of degrees but now it's obviously a lot more. This is due to ancient technology and probably wear and tear and lack of lubrication. The mercury bulb is indestructable but the rest of the 'stat wears. Get a new themostat. It will pay for itself in a year. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis
harry - 23 Feb 2010 19:11 GMT On Feb 22, 11:07 pm, Glenda Copeland <gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied- Address.invalid> wrote:
> How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set > point before turning off? I don't know if such things are available in America but in Europe you can get an "intelligent thermostat." There is an additional outside sensor and the heating is switched on earlier in cold weather and later in warmer weather. The exact amounts depend on the insulation of your house (nonexistant I expect in America). The thermostat determines this for itself after the first run. Dependant on your lifestyle, between 10 and 20% can be knocked off your heating bill. Some of these devices also compensate for wind . A digital thermostat can save 10%. It's important that the thermostat is correctly sited. In Europe every room is independently controlled in new buildings.
TimR - 26 Feb 2010 13:27 GMT It's important that the thermostat
> is correctly sited. In Europe every room is independently controlled > in new buildings.- Hide quoted text - That may be an exaggeration. I recently lived in Europe several years.
The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold morning).
Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator. That's really not an ideal location. The furnace did have an outdoor sensor with reset and a time schedule.
Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very tight.
harry - 26 Feb 2010 19:58 GMT > It's important that the thermostat > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very > tight. Yes nearly all heating over here is by means of hot water circulation, even in very large buildings.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. Also water is far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler, as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.) Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.
TimR - 26 Feb 2010 21:24 GMT .The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
> be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. I call it a boiler, too. But it doesn't actually boil anything, so to avoid confusion I used the word furnace. Sorry if I confused.
Also water is
> far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be > much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better > insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler, > as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.) > Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.- Well, I'm talking mostly residential, though the office buildings I saw all had the same kind of hot water heat. There was no air conditioning except maybe in a computer server room.
Primitive? That's relative. In Germany I saw no VAV, no DDC, no control systems to speak of, thermostatic control valves on the radiator where the heat from the unit masks the room conditions, thermostatic valves that you have to disassemble monthly because they scale up and always fail to "no heat" condition. No smoke detectors, heat detectors, CO alarms.
On the other hand, I saw first class furnace/boiler systems in residential that were well maintained by law, including semiannual combustion tests and chimney cleaning. And as I mentioned, well insulated and well sealed; you can get infiltration down to near zero if you use plaster over masonry and very very expensive double pane tiltable-closable windows. I wish I could get those in the US but I couldn't afford it if I could. Even the doors are built with a lip to seal against the jamb. I was paying 27 cents a kWhr so you can see why they work hard to save energy.
harry - 27 Feb 2010 16:27 GMT > .The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can > [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > seal against the jamb. �I was paying 27 cents a kWhr so you can see > why they work hard to save energy. I live in the UK. My house hase quadruple glazing and 4" insulated shutters, There's 2' of insulation in the walls and roof. This means we need no central heating. I have done all the work myself, I used to be an energy efficiency engineer working for the government.
ransley - 28 Feb 2010 12:25 GMT > > .The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can > [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > - Show quoted text - quad glazing, 4" shutters, post a photo, is the quad glazing LowEArgon
Josh - 27 Feb 2010 17:58 GMT >> It's important that the thermostat >> [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.) >Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe. It has nothing to do with the USA being "primitive". There are plenty of hydronic heating systems in the US, particularly in the Northeast (fueled by oil, natural gas, or propane), and they do give a nice heat (though they do take up wall space for radiators or baseboard convectors). However, you don't get air conditioning with that distribution system, so forced air is more common anywhere AC is desirable, now or in the future. Some houses (like the one I grew up in) do have both, but that's usually the result of retrofitting AC; a new home is likely to have only one HVAC system.
Josh
The Daring Dufas - 27 Feb 2010 20:17 GMT >> It's important that the thermostat >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.) > Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe. Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their own way.
TDD
Bob F - 28 Feb 2010 18:44 GMT > Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their > own way. That's revolting.
The Daring Dufas - 28 Feb 2010 19:04 GMT >> Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their >> own way. >> > That's revolting. It's revolutionary.
TDD
ransley - 28 Feb 2010 12:27 GMT > > It's important that the thermostat > [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > - Show quoted text - No gas boiler can exceed 100% efficency, I know of none over 98%.
mm - 23 Feb 2010 21:24 GMT >How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the >thermostat to 85°. I'd yell at you too. Who needs 75? Set at 78 and be happy with 68. Wear a sweater.
>I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have >numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers? > >Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off, Don't pull that cover off. There are electical forces there that will make your cold cream run.
>I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but >that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right >just seems to make the offset error worse. In that case you could risk bending the spring or some other part that is holding the mercury capsule, but two major concerns. 1) Being a Mercury Capsule, it might head for earth orbit. 2) A good chance you'll bend it in the wrong direction (it's confusing) or bend it in the right direction but so much that the offset pointer won't be able to correct it. And you only get to bend it once or twice and soon it will break off. Plus you probably need TWO needlenosses to bend it.
>What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set >point before turning off? You can try to tip the house while holding the thermostat in place.
mm - 23 Feb 2010 21:38 GMT >>I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but >>that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right >>just seems to make the offset error worse. > >In that case you could risk bending the spring or some other part that Bad advice by me. I was actually closer with my last line. See below.
>is holding the mercury capsule, but two major concerns. 1) Being a >Mercury Capsule, it might head for earth orbit. 2) A good chance [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >You can try to tip the house while holding the thermostat in place. This advice was somewhat sarcastic, but it modified just a little, it was the best advice in my post. If the adjustment with the copper pointer is insufficient, you can rotate the entire thermostat. The amount you want to rotate it is the amount it takes to make the number for example 75 to show up in the same place that currently the number 85 is in. Plus a little more if you want to recenter the copper pointer. (You now know better than I do how many degrees it is from end of the scale to the middle with the copper pointer) That would matter if you want to finish this job with the copper pointer, instead of remounting the thermostat a bunch of times. You could use two-sided tape so remounting would go quickly, or you could use screwws and finish off with the copper pointer.
mm - 23 Feb 2010 21:51 GMT >How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? As to buying a new thermostat, people here are often ready to buy new, to throw money at a problem.
As to accuracy, what does accuracy matter when people don't know if they want 74.4 or 74.7, or 75.3? And much moreso is it not important when they want something around 75 and their husband wants something around 68. Improved accuracy isn't going to help.
Temperature stabilty is adjustable iirc on the round Honeywell thermostats. It's called cycle delay or something. But one can't lower it too much because of the furnace, not because of the thermostat. It's not good for many furnaces to turn off and then turn on again when the temp drops 0.1 degrees. This is all the more true for ACs which need time for pressure to go down where it the refrigerant is compressed. The thermostat comes set for a reasonable value and it can be lessened if wanted with most furnaces. If it is also an AC thermostat, either there are two cycle delay adjustments, the cycle delay applies to the furnace only, or it can't be lowered more than is safe for the AC.
letterman@invalid.com - 26 Feb 2010 09:35 GMT >How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set >point before turning off? Sounds to me like your husband is dumber than a doornail. Maybe one of those big 20 inch round thermometers that people put outdoors would convince him that the thermostat numbers are wrong. Or maybe he's just too stupid, and you should re-marry someone like me. (I am available).
Your mercury thermostat is most likely not level. Remove the cover and you should see lines that say "level" on them. Or may not say anything, but there are horizontal lines that are supposed to be levelled. Loosen the mounting screws and level it. No need to remove the wires, just turn it on the mounting screws until it's level and retighten the screws.
On the other hand, the thermostat might be worn, and just not accurate anymore. Modern digital ones can be gotten for as little as about $15 these days. Even Walmart has them. They do not need to be level, and are easy to install. It might be good to replace it, but go ahead and level the old one first. If you do replace it, so NOT toss the old one in the garbage. Mercury is toxic. Recycle it.
The copper pointer is called the "anticipator". It adjusts the amount of rise and fall temperature. In other words, how often the furnace cycles (turns on and off). One settings of that pointer makes it turn on at ex: on 63, off 70. (With thermostate set to 67) Or, if the furnace runs more often, it will come on at 66 and go off at 69 (With thermostate set to 67). It does not change the accuracy of the settings, just how often the furnace runs to maintain somewhat close to the set temperature. That settings is adjusted by the current draw of the furnace, and if you dont know that, just change it until the heat is relatively even without cycling on and off every few minutes. This takes a lot of trial and error, so it's better to determine the actual current.
LM
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