Homeowner Forum / Repair / October 2008

If you're looking for non-toxic, use mineral oil. It's the usual
treatment for cutting boards.

On 10/5/2008 6:49 PM The Ranger spake thus:

Varathane just happens to be one variety of varnish (one containing
polyurethane). I'd use varnish, but instead of Varathane, I'd use a good
marine spar varnish (like McCloskey). Even tougher; a couple of coats
ought to stand up to any amount of handling.

Don't use an oil finish as someone else suggested: too soft, and the
wood will pick up dirt from handling. Varnish is the way to go;
completely covers the wood, doesn't absorb dirt or oil, can easily be
cleaned, and can be recoated later if needed.

Wait till it dries-months, maybe 6? or get a moisture meter and wait
till near 15% or anything will peal. Gloss finishes are clearer
alowing more grain to be seen. Marine poly if it will see sun outside.

1. Someone suggested waiting til the wood was reasonably dry.  Good advice.
Someone else suggested mineral oil.  Not good advice as mineral oil *never*
dries.  Other oils such as linseed, tung, et al are possibilities but not
great ones as they are pretty soft and don't offer much protection.  Someone
else suggested spar varnish; again, soft and not a good choice for this
application.

2. Since you are interested in eye appeal and protection, oil based glossy
poly (such as oil base Varathane) will give you both.  The following steps
will give you an eye catching finish...

a) wait until the wood is dry

b) make sure the wood is really well sanded - no swirl marks, feels silky
smooth.  Remove all sanding dust.

c) apply at *least* four coats of oil based gloss poly.  Follow the
directions on the can but usually you can recoat without sanding as long as
the next coat goes on about four hours later.  If you wait too long you need
to let it dry completely then lightly sand before applying another coat.

d) let the last coat dry at least 48 hours (longer is better) then rub it
with #0000 steel wool.  Do so until all glossy spots are gone.  If you cut
completely through the finish anywhere, stop, apply two or more additional
coats, let dry another 48 hours then steel wool again.

e) apply one more coat of finish.  The only purpose is to bring back the
shine so apply it thinly -  thin a bit and either brush or wipe it on.

You could do the same thing with either regular alkyd varnish or lacquer.
Both are less scratch resistant than the poly and lacquer will not "pop the
grain" as much; the latter is also true of water based poly.

it depends on indoor or outdoor use.
for outdoors;use a marine finish,that will have UV protection.

indoors;shellacs and oil finishes will not protect against water rings from  
drink glasses.

you probably want to apply some sort of stain first,to enhance the
grain,then seal with urethane,lacquer,or varnish.

Remember you are dealing with END grain.
it will soak up a lot of finish if not stained/sealed first.
the first coat will probably raise the grain,and then need a bit more
sanding.

Your project might benefit from applying some boiled linseed oil to
accentuate the ring pattern before proceeding with finishing. You apply
and wipe off after 5-10 minutes. Let dry several days, longer if the
weather isn't so good. This is standard with pine/shellac finishing. I
think it might be beneficial with varnish as well and your wood. If you
have a surface you can experiment on, so much the better.

Assuming  you use varnish, I'd recommend at least 3 coats. What you
choose depends on the usage. Will your pieces be exposed to weather/sun?

Dan