I've nearly finished painting the interior of my home and I'm pretty happy
with the results so far. I still have doors to do, however, and I am not
sure how to paint them. These are standard, smooth wooden interior doors.
If I roll them with a low nap brush, will I get a smooth finish? (A little
orange peel is fine with me.)
The alternative is spraying. I have a small Graco spray rig with a 0.015"
tip, so I can spray the doors instead. My other experiences with spraying
is that it needs to be done outdoors because of the spray, but keeping bugs
and stuff off a horizontal door for an hour or two while it dries is tough.
Any advice on spraying?
BTW, whether I spray or roll, I plan on using Flowtrol flow enhancer on the
assumption that this will help to get a smoother finish. Is this a good
idea? Thanks in advance for any help.
- Magnusfarce
m Ransley - 11 Dec 2003 00:48 GMT
For a real good finish prime with Benjamin moore Enamel Underbody ,sand
with 220, use ben moore satin impervo and penetrol, rent an HVLP and
spray . Practice and dont spray horizontal. But underbody is apx 25
gal, impervo 40 gal. its worth it for high quality work
Magnusfarce - 11 Dec 2003 20:22 GMT
Is there any way to get good results with my sprayer and not have to rent
another rig?
- Magnusfarce
> For a real good finish prime with Benjamin moore Enamel Underbody ,sand
> with 220, use ben moore satin impervo and penetrol, rent an HVLP and
> spray . Practice and dont spray horizontal. But underbody is apx 25
> gal, impervo 40 gal. its worth it for high quality work
m Ransley - 11 Dec 2003 21:57 GMT
Yes try the graco, use a new tip, thin with penetrol for oil,floetrol
for latex, its more messy than hvlp. I guess you want to use latex
because you say Floetrol. Experiment on cardboard first.
Magnusfarce - 12 Dec 2003 02:16 GMT
I just assumed semi-gloss latex, since I used latex (Valspar American
Tradition from Lowes) elsewhere in the house. Is that a clearly bad choice
compared to an oil based paint?
- Magnusfarce
> Yes try the graco, use a new tip, thin with penetrol for oil,floetrol
> for latex, its more messy than hvlp. I guess you want to use latex
> because you say Floetrol. Experiment on cardboard first.
m Ransley - 12 Dec 2003 03:23 GMT
Oil flows out , it takes longer to cure. Latex really cant, its the
paints chemistry. But your finish is only as good as your surface. If
you painted glass with latex with a brush , you will always have brush
marks, spray it will be good, but the finish isnt as high a quality as
oil. Only 2 paints can you brush on glass and have it look sprayed Ben
Moore Satin impervo and P& L oil gloss. But they run 40 a gallon. And
you need penetrol and a 20 - 30$ brush.
I dont know what kind of doors but to benefit from spraying oil You
need a great smooth surface 220 g on a sander equaling 320 by hand.
Alot of work. But then the rest of the trim may look out of place. Oil
will also look different if you are using latex for other trim. If nice
panel doors sand with 180 and try latex. There are better latex paints
BM, Sherwin williams, But to change now will be noticable, color and
sheen level. Hope i didnt confuse the issue, thats why i dont like
talking paint , I cant see it, It takes to long to write, and hard to
describe
EL - 11 Dec 2003 02:34 GMT
Try the flat pads that are available. These, with an alkyd enamel and
Flowtrol will give you a good result.
Boden
> I've nearly finished painting the interior of my home and I'm pretty happy
> with the results so far. I still have doors to do, however, and I am not
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> - Magnusfarce
Frogleg - 12 Dec 2003 13:30 GMT
>I've nearly finished painting the interior of my home and I'm pretty happy
>with the results so far. I still have doors to do, however, and I am not
>sure how to paint them.
I know this wasn't your question, but consider the edges if colors on
each side of the door are different. Open the door. The edge with the
latch should match the color of the area it now resides in; the hinge
edge should match the other area.