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Homeowner Forum / Construction / August 2008Building on Sandy Soil
I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western Wisconsin. The soil survey maps defines it as 'tarr sand' " The Tarr series consists of very deep, excessively drained soils formed in siliceous sandy pedisediment over siliceous sandy residuum from sandstone on stream terraces, hills, and pediments. 90% quartz. Permeability is rapid." Plans are for a full basement built with ICFs. I'm a little concerned about the stability of this type of this sandy material for what I have in mind. Any help would be appreciated. Curly Hi Curly, I built a house about 12 years ago for a fellow here in Northern Calif. on a "Sand Dune" It is a large 2 story, with 3 car garage. I do have pictures of the house, and have been there recently. The house seems to be fine. The engineer architect designed a footing that was quite large and wide. It had additional rebar in the footing and more than a regular 2 story design. I actually had to build 2 forms for the concrete footing construction. One to keep the sand from filling the footing made out of inert material to be left in the pour. As for a basement, there was none, and I suspect you would not have any problem with moisture since you will have good drainage being "sandy" I believe the "Large Footprint" of the footing and the steel in the engineering of the footing made for a stable construction. John Loomis Construction and Concrete > I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western > Wisconsin. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Curly > Hi Curly, > I built a house about 12 years ago for a fellow here in Northern Calif. on a [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > I believe the "Large Footprint" of the footing and the steel in the > engineering of the footing made for a stable construction. Thanks. I'll keep what you said in mind when I speak to a contractor. Curly > John Loomis Construction and Concrete >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> >> Curly As for the garage I would make sure that the walls were adequately water proofed, and there are many applications that will solve this. Moisture will "wick" in.......regardless of drainage, and like a sponge will absorb moisture and keep it there unless driven out by heat. So, a good water vapor barrier on the outside would be in line. jloomis "jloomis" <jloomis@ocean.net> wrote in message news:... > Hi Curly, > I built a house about 12 years ago for a fellow here in Northern Calif. on [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> >> Curly > I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western Wisconsin. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Curly Was the structure designed by an engineer? Have you considered retaining an engineer to review the foundation? T >> I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western Wisconsin. >> [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Have you considered retaining an engineer to review the foundation? > T No. Whatever it takes. I'm not looking to cut corners. Curly Your safest bet would be to look around for a local civil engineer who will be familiar with the soils in your area. He or she can easily design/specify a footing and wall which will adequately support your structure, and take all the guesswork off your shoulders, a cheap investment with good return. Good luck, Jonathan On 8/10/08 8:36 AM, in article AK2dnRuHR6pCfQPVnZ2dnUVZ_gKdnZ2d@centurytel.net, "CurlyQue" <mamay@gug.com> wrote: >>> I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western Wisconsin. >>> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Curly > I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western > Wisconsin. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Curly Ya know they make engineers for this stuff. T  SignatureAnthony Ippolito Providing Architectural Drafting & Design For Over 40 Years ippolitoa@bellsouth.net > I'm looking at a piece of property for a building site in Western > Wisconsin. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Curly |
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