I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in order
to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be removed
will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another, it'll be
removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing plaster & lath
are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall products. If the
plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available, what's a good way to
make this work? Shims on the beam edges before installing the drywall?
Prayer?
Michael Bulatovich - 23 Apr 2007 12:31 GMT
> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
> installing the drywall? Prayer?
A bit of shimming and a bit of skimming.

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Jeff - 23 Apr 2007 21:44 GMT
don't be afraid of plaster.
1.screw some wire lath into the hole
2. apply a base & brown coats of perlited gypsum plaster
http://www.bpb-na.com/us/english/finishing_products/downloads/Perlited.pdf
3. finish with diamond coat finish plaster.
Its really faster and easier that going the drywall and multi layers of mud
route.
One thing to remember don't use to much water when mixing the plaster. It
should be nowhere as loose as drywall mud, Wet only enough to make it
plastic. Pack the base coat well and do a damp finish to polish the diamond
coat when it begins to set.
You'll find that plaster is much more durable than drywall.
Jeff
> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
> installing the drywall? Prayer?
JoeSpareBedroom - 23 Apr 2007 22:03 GMT
>> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
>> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
>> installing the drywall? Prayer?
> don't be afraid of plaster.
> 1.screw some wire lath into the hole
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Jeff
Jeff, I'm taking down an amount of plaster wall equivalent of about 6 sheets
of drywall. No way I'm going to plaster it again. All the lath is coming off
so I can install fiberglass insulation batts. I've done plenty of plastering
in the past, but in this case, it would be nuts.
Wayne Whitney - 24 Apr 2007 01:57 GMT
> Jeff, I'm taking down an amount of plaster wall equivalent of about 6 sheets
> of drywall. No way I'm going to plaster it again. All the lath is coming off
> so I can install fiberglass insulation batts. I've done plenty of plastering
> in the past, but in this case, it would be nuts.
How about blueboard (plasterboard) and a veneer coat of plaster? You
can fur out as needed to get the face of the blueboard within 1/8" of
the existing plaster, and then the veneer coat will even it up.
Cheers, Wayne
Jeff - 23 Apr 2007 23:34 GMT
If you have to skim over 192 sq ft of wall board to level it to the existing
plaster wall, you might as well be plastering.
Jeff
> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
> order to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> what's a good way to make this work? Shims on the beam edges before
> installing the drywall? Prayer?
Glenn - 24 Apr 2007 01:48 GMT
Why in the world would he do that? Plaster is usually about 3/4"
thick. Usual drywall for that app would be 1/2". What's the big
deal of furring 1/4" on the studs or if you need 3/8", you already
have that with the lath you removed. I would get a really clean
joint from the old to the new and tape it with several thicknesses
of the nylon mash made for that. Before they came out with that
type tape, I have used a nylon hose (sock).
> If you have to skim over 192 sq ft of wall board to level it to
> the existing plaster wall, you might as well be plastering.
>
> Jeff
JoeSpareBedroom - 24 Apr 2007 13:26 GMT
This is the way I'm leaning, after reading all the comments.
> Why in the world would he do that? Plaster is usually about 3/4" thick.
> Usual drywall for that app would be 1/2". What's the big deal of furring
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>>
>> Jeff
Wes - 27 Apr 2007 21:57 GMT
> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in order
> to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be removed
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> make this work? Shims on the beam edges before installing the drywall?
> Prayer?
Since gyp board comes in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" thicknesses, just
sandwitch what you need.
JoeSpareBedroom - 27 Apr 2007 22:00 GMT
>> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
>> order
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Since gyp board comes in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" thicknesses, just
> sandwitch what you need.
What should go in between the layers? Mayo? Mustard? What kind of mustard?
Either be specific, or your suggestion isn't very helpful.
:-)
Michael Bulatovich - 27 Apr 2007 23:13 GMT
>>> I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in
>>> order
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> What should go in between the layers? Mayo? Mustard? What kind of mustard?
> Either be specific, or your suggestion isn't very helpful.
I use annoying little children. It's traditional in many places.