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Homeowner Forum / Construction / February 2007New photos of our house
Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is under construction (and nearing completion). Choosing a Hot Water Heater and Water Softener http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/67/Choosing-a-Hot-Water-Heater-and-Wa ter-Softener.aspx Preparing For Drywall Finishing With Red Paper http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/66/Preparing-For-Drywall-Finishing-Wi th-Red-Paper.aspx Cutting Holes In Drywall For In-Ceiling Speakers http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/68/Cutting-Holes-In-Drywall-For-In-Ce iling-Speakers.aspx Cutting In And Other Painting Fun http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/69/Cutting-In-And-Other-Painting-Fun.aspx Italianate Cottage: A New Old House In Charlmette, Louisiana http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/65/Italianate-Cottage-A-New-Old-House -In-Charlmette,-Louisiana.aspx ...that last one is the first entry in our blog for another "new old house" besides ours. If you guys know anyone else who would like to submit photos and a story for their "new old house" let me know. It's kind of fun to learn about other people's "new old houses." - John > Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is > interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > - John I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them so they don't transmit sound through to the bedrooms above and keep the kinder up all night? BTW, why is it hard to make holes smaller? Not much different than patching a hole. In 20 years you won't be worrying about the size of the holes, you'll be selling to Miamicruise who will be trying to figure out why the speakers are there in the first place. Miami is the only one who would buy it because of the documents fire and collapse during construction. Meanwhile, your headaches will have finally disappeared as the waterseal that you applied to the decking finally outgassed. > I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them > so they don't transmit sound through to the bedrooms above and keep > the kinder up all night? The amount of bass that can be transmitted through the floor by ceiling speakers is unbelievable. You have to insulate over and around the speaker or the joist bay will act as a huge resonator designed to amplify bass - a drum. It is also a good idea to use dense rubber mounting blocks under the retaining screw wings and a foam gasket between the ceiling and the mounting flange. R > Pat wrote: >> I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > dense rubber mounting blocks under the retaining screw wings and a > foam gasket between the ceiling and the mounting flange. The biggest problem, in my opinion, with built-in speakers is the loss of the *sweet spot*. Wow! Thanks for the heads-up, you guys! I'm going to do some research and find out what I need to do to make sure that the chil'n aren't kept awake at night from the audio of my nature videos. I'll probably first see how it works as-is, since it's a 6.1 system and all bass will be coming from the subwoofer. Plus, they're not bass reflex speakers, so all the sound should be pointed down. If I need soundproofing, maybe there's something I can spray inside the joist cavity? I think I'll contact the manufacturer for advice. Thanks again!!! - J > >> I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them > >> so they don't transmit sound through to the bedrooms above and keep [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > The biggest problem, in my opinion, with built-in speakers is the loss of > the *sweet spot*. > On Feb 20, 2:18 pm, "Don" <one-if-by-l...@concord.com> wrote:> "RicodJour"> wrote > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > The biggest problem, in my opinion, with built-in speakers is the loss of > > the *sweet spot*. As Don mentions in a post, the speakers are make for this so it isn't like installing a car speaker in the wall, but still, all you have is the subfloor and maybe a rug between you and the upstairs. Rico's mentioning the use of rubber washers in a good ideal. At a minimum, make sure that nothing is screwed solid into the wood. You want to use rubber or something to insulate the speakers from the house. >> On Feb 20, 2:18 pm, "Don" <one-if-by-l...@concord.com> wrote:> >> "RicodJour"> wrote [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > make sure that nothing is screwed solid into the wood. You want to > use rubber or something to insulate the speakers from the house. The gaskets are fine for isolating the vibrations but there is no way to stop the sound from transferring through that 3/4" plywood flooring, even if it has tile on top of it. Steel cases with baffles like I had will help but its still going to occur. For a ceiling installation, with a sleeping room above, I'd go with surface mount speakers and fill the joist cavity above with sound absorbing material (expensive, see www.crutchfield.com ). If the room in question has an 8' ceiling this is probably not an option. > >> On Feb 20, 2:18 pm, "Don" <one-if-by-l...@concord.com> wrote:> > >> "RicodJour"> wrote [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > (expensive, seewww.crutchfield.com). > If the room in question has an 8' ceiling this is probably not an option. My house is plaster and lathe, so I wouldn't worry too much about surface mounted speakers -- you could set off a small bomb in one room and not hear it in the next. But sheetrock is a different story, but I agree, I would surface mount them -- but it's too late for that. He said it's too hard to make a hole smaller so patching it would be out of the question ;-) I would surface mount them and use something like the rubberized mouse- pad material in isolate the speaker from the wall. But if he's stuck with what he's got and he's not willing to burn it down and do it right this time (again), then maybe he should either stuff it full of fiberglass or spray it with foam insulation. He might also want to put a brick or something up through the hole to put a load on the sheetrock so it doesn't act like a large sound- board. I don't know. I guess this is why you get pro installation. Hey, better yet, maybe he should check and see what the architect spec'd. > He might also want to put a brick or something up through the hole to > put a load on the sheetrock so it doesn't act like a large sound- > board. I don't know. I guess this is why you get pro installation. Any speaker with a decent magnet is gonna have that drywall bowing down, bad! Hell, under the right sonic load it could tear loose and swing down by the wire and knock somebody out. LOL > Hey, better yet, maybe he should check and see what the architect > spec'd. Ha! The last time I spec'd ceiling speakers was back in the 80's for some Nutone intercoms. Speakers meant for music & movies are directional and its not normal to hear *stuff* coming from the ceiling. **Unless gawd is speaking.......or Carl Palmers levitationg drum cage........ > > He might also want to put a brick or something up through the hole to > > put a load on the sheetrock so it doesn't act like a large sound- > > board. I don't know. I guess this is why you get pro installation. > > Any speaker with a decent magnet is gonna have that drywall bowing down, > bad! Hell, under the right sonic load it could tear loose and swing down by the wire and knock somebody out. LOL Hey, call Mythbusters. We need to see if that's true. And if so, lets get some video of it. That's be cool to see. > > Hey, better yet, maybe he should check and see what the architect > > spec'd. > > Ha! > The last time I spec'd ceiling speakers was back in the 80's for some Nutone > intercoms. Maybe the building inspector will know. Let's suggest that he call and ask! > Speakers meant for music & movies are directional and its not normal to hear > *stuff* coming from the ceiling. > **Unless gawd is speaking.......or Carl Palmers levitationg drum > cage........ >> Pat wrote: >>> I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > The biggest problem, in my opinion, with built-in speakers is the loss of > the *sweet spot*. This isn't for anyone serious about music. It's for people who can't stand the little voice in their heads telling them that they've squandered their lives, and that no amount of consumption is going to fix that. > "Don"> wrote >>> Pat wrote: [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > the little voice in their heads telling them that they've squandered their > lives, and that no amount of consumption is going to fix that. LOL, I wanna party wif this dood. Guess what? I'm one of those people that can hear the diff between analog and digital. I'd heard about this for years and didn't know what the deal was. Then one night 'bout 5 years ago I was listening to some albums, remember them?, and then changed to mp3's and I instantly heard the difference. The best way I can describe it in a written format is like this: This is analog: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (its supposed to look *curved*, sine wave. This is digital: ---- ---- ----- ----- |___| |___| |___| (a square sine wave) The bottom and top are cut off, rather sharply. The first time I heard this I had to look at my setting to make sure everything was proper. BTW: I also have 2 reel to reel tape recorders. A 2 channel Pioneer with 10" reels and a Sansui 4 channel with 7" reels. And 4 turntables, 1 is 4 channel. I collect this stuff, have close to 100 pieces....... >> This isn't for anyone serious about music. It's for people who can't >> stand the little voice in their heads telling them that they've >> squandered their lives, and that no amount of consumption is going to fix >> that. Sorry. I knew that was a bit harsh when I hit "post". I do these built-in systems when people ask for it, but none of them are audiophiles, or seriously into music. They are tourists. Most of them could benefit from some quiet contemplation IMHO. > LOL, I wanna party wif this dood. > Guess what? > I'm one of those people that can hear the diff between analog and digital. You're not alone. Digital is like a very fine diamond ceramic saw blade, and analogue is like warm chocolate fondue. I've recently been ripping my vinyl collection for distribution through a 'network receiver', mainly to free up space in the living room. The turntable and amp is under my desk. I made a good run at it but have slowed recently....I'm running out of steam. I want to fix every pop, and there are so many albums. I've been lurking in some audio groups since hatching the plan to digitize everything...it's amazing how much equipment purchased when I had (long) hair is still out there working, and how many people are out there looking for parts to keep them running.  SignatureMichaelB www.michaelbulatovich.ca > I've been lurking in some audio groups since hatching the plan to digitize > everything...it's amazing how much equipment purchased when I had (long) > hair is still out there working, and how many people are out there looking > for parts to keep them running. Nod. When I came back from Germany in 78 I had several thousand dollars worth of stuff which I gave up through a bad decision. Never thought I'd see stuff like that again. Then in 1998 I discovered ebay and the rest is history. I blew $15k + in one year on 70's vintage Pioneer and Sansui stuff. I don't listen to music much anymore but when I do I prefer very high quality delivery. I have a couple friends in FL that have spent insane amounts of money of this stuff. Like, $1500 for a turntable cartridge. Please....... > >> This isn't for anyone serious about music. It's for people who can't > >> stand the little voice in their heads telling them that they've [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > seriously into music. They are tourists. Most of them could benefit from > some quiet contemplation IMHO. Hey, some people LIKE Muzak. Overhead speakers are great for that. > > LOL, I wanna party wif this dood. > > Guess what? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > 'network receiver', mainly to free up space in the living room. The > turntable and amp is under my desk. I think you probably slowed down because you kept hitting your head on the desk. Don keeps his under the desk to so his wife can change records, but that's a different story. I made a good run at it but have slowed > recently....I'm running out of steam. I want to fix every pop, and there are > so many albums. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > hair is still out there working, and how many people are out there looking > for parts to keep them running. Old parts for old farts? > -- > > MichaelBwww.michaelbulatovich.ca >> Most of them could benefit from >> some quiet contemplation IMHO. > > Hey, some people LIKE Muzak. Overhead speakers are great for that. See above. >> I've recently been ripping my vinyl collection for distribution through a >> 'network receiver', mainly to free up space in the living room. The >> turntable and amp is under my desk. > > I think you probably slowed down because you kept hitting your head on > the desk. You might have a point there. If I had a surface waist high that I could spare I'd put it there until it's done... >> "Don"> wrote >>>> Pat wrote: [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > And 4 turntables, 1 is 4 channel. > I collect this stuff, have close to 100 pieces....... Heh... the new cottage we bought will host a lot of our old stuff that is stored up on our loft bed in our apartment in the city. Some of that includes the 400+ vinyl's I can't wait to listen to again since I only played about 90% of them once to record on tape in the 70's and 80's. To listen to those great old tunes I can't wait to dust off my Pioneer SX-3700 amp, my Technics direct drive quartz turn table, my Akai tape deck, my two Allison Acoustic 6 cubes and two Dynaco speakers. All middle to upper quality stuff but that doesn't take away the thrill I'm gonna have playing it all. > Heh... the new cottage we bought will host a lot of our old stuff that is > stored up on our loft bed in our apartment in the city. Some of that [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > to upper quality stuff but that doesn't take away the thrill I'm gonna > have playing it all. Heh, the 3700 was in the 3rd series of the amazing silver faced run, manuf in the late 70's, approx. *50 (real) watts per channel*, walnut side panels. A nice little machine. Remind me, does this one have the blue lighted dial face? Akai tape deck, reel or cassette? My first reel was an Akai, 7" reels, with auto-reverse. Wish I still had it. When I say real watts thats what I mean. Not the ridiculous, and false, claims the manuf's today spout off about in their black and silver plastic 3 pound pieces of junk. Your Pioneer will blow most speakers on the market today, stretched woofer cones, crystalized voice coils and bleached magnets. I bought a $400 Pioneer receiver back in 1994 and about 2 years ago it failed. Rather than throwing it to the curb I opened the 3 pound plastic case to see what was inside. It was mainly a hollow box, with a small circuit board in the corner and a few wires. I was shocked that that was all that was in there. If you open the cabinet on my gargantuan Pioneer SX-1250 there is barely room for dust to accumulate. Caps as big as Coke cans, transformers big enough to run NYC for 2 weeks. LOL >> Heh... the new cottage we bought will host a lot of our old stuff that >> is stored up on our loft bed in our apartment in the city. Some of that [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > A nice little machine. > Remind me, does this one have the blue lighted dial face? That's the one... like this one: http://tinyurl.com/27cw5e this one is listed on ebay for almost 600bux... dunno what it would actually sell for, others are listed and have bids at around 100bux without the box and papers. I'm glad I kept the box and original manuals... > Akai tape deck, reel or cassette? Nah, it's a double casette deck from the same era... I splurged on the amp and Allison six speakers like these: http://tinyurl.com/26d4uh unlike these on ebay, mine are mint and with the boxes and literature... Geez... looking at these prices on ebay it makes me think... nah, I'd rather use them... > My first reel was an Akai, 7" reels, with auto-reverse. > Wish I still had it. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Caps as big as Coke cans, transformers big enough to run NYC for 2 weeks. > LOL >>> Heh... the new cottage we bought will host a lot of our old stuff that >>> is stored up on our loft bed in our apartment in the city. Some of that [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Geez... looking at these prices on ebay it makes me think... nah, I'd > rather use them... You were wise to keep the box and lit. as that makes all the difference in the world if you sell it. What it means is that you took real good care of your stuff. For a few years I bought and sold stereo equip left and right on ebay in an effort to get the best of the best. I likes them Pioneers wif the purty blu lites. I even have a few of the accessory pieces for that series, which I wrongly quoted before. The 3700 is in the 4th series not the 3rd. I have a noise reduction and range expander as well as a reverb unit from that series. In fact, I have 2 of each, in the original boxes with manuals. I have them in both the blue lights and the green lights. My alltime preference though is from the 2nd series and my big time baby is my original SX-1250 receiver, 160 watts per ch. which I had a total makeover done on it last year and it will make your eyes bleed. You can see it here: http://tinyurl.com/22stet At 70lbs its not for the light hearted. If you wanna do your 3700, and your ears, some serious justice do an ebay search for some 1st series Pioneer HPM-100 speakers. You'll know the 1st series by the silver ring around the blowhole. The market is down right now for vintage stereo equipment and you can pick up a good pair of HPM's for less than $300. They go 20-20,000hz and thats farther than the human ear can grasp. You can hear the drumsticks coming OFF the symbols. Here's what they look like: http://tinyurl.com/26uxjf Excellent price, but you better hurry, the auction is over in 36 mins. Or, go whole hog and grab up the daddy's in this series: http://tinyurl.com/287pux Your wife will kill you. LOL > I've never done in-ceiling speakers, but did you soundproof above them > so they don't transmit sound through to the bedrooms above and keep > the kinder up all night? I installed the 5.1 in-wall system in my house back in 2002 when it was under construction. They were the good ones, none of that plastic stuff. During the framing there were steel mounting boxes installed between the studs. Then in the trim phase the speakers were installed after the sound baffles were inserted. The baffles caused 90% of the sound to come out of the front. Incidently, did you know there are basically 2 types of speakers. Infinite Baffle and Bass Reflex. You can tell them apart visually by observing whether the speaker cabinet has a *blow hole* on the front, which lets the bass sounds resonate forward. If it has a blow hole its a Bass Reflex speaker. Infinite Baffle speakers have no blowhole and rely on the sealed cabinet to force the bass to the front. Infinite Baffles seem to have a tighter sound to the low end. How to test a speaker: Play Boston's "Smokin'" song and listen for the part where the dood rolls the drums downward. Crank the volume as loud as you can stand it and hold a lit zippo lighter 4' in front of the speaker. When the drummer hits the lowest drum the zippo should blow. If not, box that junk up and take it back from whence it came and beat the sales doods a.s. Please post some pictures of the paint drying. in your picture of the hot water heater / water softener, please tell me that white vertical plastic pipe to the right of the heater (that looks like $hit) is not a gas line ! if it is, you need to have whoever did that shoddy job to do over. if it's a suction line for the salt tank, make them do it over anyway, it looks like $hit ! > Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is > interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is > under construction (and nearing completion). > > Choosing a Hot Water Heater and Water Softener http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/67/Choosing-a-Hot-Water-Heater-and-Wa ter-Softener.aspx > Preparing For Drywall Finishing With Red Paper http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/66/Preparing-For-Drywall-Finishing-Wi th-Red-Paper.aspx > Cutting Holes In Drywall For In-Ceiling Speakers http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/68/Cutting-Holes-In-Drywall-For-In-Ce iling-Speakers.aspx > Cutting In And Other Painting Fun http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/69/Cutting-In-And-Other-Painting-Fun.aspx > Italianate Cottage: A New Old House In Charlmette, Louisiana http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/65/Italianate-Cottage-A-New-Old-House -In-Charlmette,-Louisiana.aspx > ...that last one is the first entry in our blog for another "new old > house" besides ours. If you guys know anyone else who would like to > submit photos and a story for their "new old house" let me know. It's > kind of fun to learn about other people's "new old houses." > > - John > in your picture of the hot water heater / water softener, > please tell me that white vertical plastic pipe to the right [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > if it's a suction line for the salt tank, make them do > it over anyway, it looks like $hit ! It probably should be galvanized pipe or at least metal hose. I don't like the idea of pvc foe gas lines > > in your picture of the hot water heater / water softener, > > please tell me that white vertical plastic pipe to the right [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > It probably should be galvanized pipe or at least metal hose. I don't like > the idea of pvc foe gas lines Look closer - The gas line should enter on the left side of the gas valve. It is open in the photo, so gas line isn't run yet. BTW, Galvanized isn't code in my area, but black pipe would be. JK Galvanized isn't code for what? Code doesn't say galv is not allowed on gas, it's just not preferred. SignatureSteve Barker > Look closer - The gas line should enter on the left side of the gas > valve. It is open in the photo, so gas line isn't run yet. > > BTW, Galvanized isn't code in my area, but black pipe would be. > > JK > Galvanized isn't code for what? Code doesn't say galv is not allowed on > gas, it's just not preferred. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> >> JK Quick hijack question - is black pipe black because of rust protection - i.e. as in gun blueing or parkerizing. I understand the difference between blueing and parkerizing by the way, but I didn't have the proper term for it off the top of my head. > Galvanized isn't code for what? Code doesn't say galv is not allowed on > gas, it's just not preferred. Depends on where you live. I know for a fact that the town where I work will not approve galvanized. http://www.inspect-ny.com/plumbing/gasfaults.htm#gasfaults6 Safety warning: Check condition of flexible gas line connections: Caution: we do not pull out appliances to look at gas line connections, but you should do so, checking condition of flexible connections for leaks and assuring that a shutoff valve is installed. Watch for leaks in those flex-connector lines between gas line and the appliance as they are thin wall and often corrode and leak. Gas leaks are dangerous. Safety warning. Flexible soft copper piping has been used to supply municipal (natural) gas to the ... electric clothes dryer. ... hot water heater. ... heating system. This is not a recommended installation and it may be prohibited by local codes - "black iron" steel piping is required in many jurisdictions. I don't see the reference to "galvanized". SignatureSteve Barker >> Galvanized isn't code for what? Code doesn't say galv is not allowed on >> gas, it's just not preferred. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > This is not a recommended installation and it may be prohibited by local > codes - "black iron" steel piping is required in many jurisdictions. >I don't see the reference to "galvanized". >> This is not a recommended installation and it may be prohibited by local >> codes - "black iron" steel piping is required in many jurisdictions. Read the last line. It does not say galvanized is not allowed, but does say black is preferred. As I said, it is not allowed by our local inspector in MA, but it may be in your town. I don't argue with our local guy as it is easier to do what he wants. On Feb 24, 12:11 pm, "Steve Barker" <ichasetra...@some.yahoo.com> wrote: > Galvanized isn't code for what? Code doesn't say galv is not allowed on > gas, it's just not preferred. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > > JK Galvanized is not allowed for gas in my area. I am in SE Wisconsin. I am pretty sure that flex stainless lines are also a no-no for us on water heaters. Here we see mostly black pipe, and occasionally flex pipe such as Wardflex(tm) for "snaking" through floors and walls. JK Can you cite the code or provide a link for that? SignatureSteve Barker > Galvanized is not allowed for gas in my area. I am in SE Wisconsin. > I am pretty sure that flex stainless lines are also a no-no for us on > water heaters. Here we see mostly black pipe, and occasionally flex > pipe such as Wardflex(tm) for "snaking" through floors and walls. > > JK On Feb 24, 3:34 pm, "Steve Barker" <ichasetra...@some.yahoo.com> wrote: > Can you cite the code or provide a link for that? > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > > JK No. As far as I know, WI is one of the only states that hasn't (or isn't) adopting a more universal code for plumbing. I'm sure that poking around the web enough I could find and cite the code, but it is likely a WI only thing, so what is the value to the group as a whole? JK > Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is > interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > - John They used CPVC for the gas line to the water heater. IIRC, CPVC is not rated for gas, and I'm pretty sure the valve is not. You really want to check on that before you have a gas leak etc.. Normally black iron pipe or yellow flex is used. Also, the picture isn't that good to see detail but the galvanized piece that comes out of the right side up toward the top, that should be a T/P relief valve, is it? If not that's as dangerous as the wrong gas line material. There is supposed to be a water line from the T/P valve (I don't see one, just the galvanized pipe with something black on the end?) with plumbing down toward the floor or to the outside so that hot water can exit the tank to relieve pressure/temperature build up in case of emergency where the water is heated too hot or the pressure exceeds the limit. Otherwise the water heater tank explodes. You need to check both for code compilance and proper material and a T/ P valve. Gary Quality Water Associates The cpvc is actually a return line plumbed into the drain cock port. The gas line hasn't been run yet. here's a larger view. http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/images/HotWaterLRG.jpg SignatureSteve Barker >> Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is >> interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > Gary > Quality Water Associates I agree with Gary, there needs to be a T&P valve on the tank that is piped to the floor. I'm not sure which room you are in or which code your jurisdiction uses, but I suspect the hot water tank needs to be on an pedestal that gets the flame over 18" off the floor. Signature______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) dgriff237@7cox.net >> Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case >> anyone is [quoted text clipped - 61 lines] > Gary > Quality Water Associates The 18" thing only applies to when it's in a garage area. SignatureSteve Barker >I agree with Gary, there needs to be a T&P valve on the tank that is piped >to the floor. I'm not sure which room you are in or which code your >jurisdiction uses, but I suspect the hot water tank needs to be on an >pedestal that gets the flame over 18" off the floor. "DanG"> wrote but I suspect the hot water > tank needs to be on an pedestal that gets the flame over 18" off the > floor. Whats the reason for that? Mine is sitting in an overflow pan right on the floor. I could not tell from his picture, it is required for garage installations. Some inspectors are liking the idea so much they prefer it on all installs. Has to do with explosive, heavier than air, vapors. We even have one that wants electric 2 1/2 gallon ones elevated. Galvanized pipe is a no-no for gas. Signature______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) dgriff237@7cox.net > "DanG"> wrote > but I suspect the hot water [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Whats the reason for that? > Mine is sitting in an overflow pan right on the floor. And it is inspectors like these that cause trouble. When they make their own rules, where does it stop? And the galvanized pipe is strictly a "not recommended" thing. It's not against code. To elevate an electric water heater is just stupid and ridiculous. The whole point is to prevent gasoline vapors that could possibly gather at the floor of a garage from igniting on a GAS unit. Any other unit, and any other place, it's ignorant to elevate it. SignatureSteve Barker >I could not tell from his picture, it is required for garage installations. >Some inspectors are liking the idea so much they prefer it on all installs. >Has to do with explosive, heavier than air, vapors. We even have one that >wants electric 2 1/2 gallon ones elevated. > > Galvanized pipe is a no-no for gas. > They used CPVC for the gas line to the water heater. IIRC, CPVC is not > rated for gas, and I'm pretty sure the valve is not. You really want > to check on that before you have a gas leak etc.. Normally black iron > pipe or yellow flex is used. I have both, black iron and yellow flex and just recently paid $1.75/ft for some brand new blue flex. The original line, 100' of 1/4" bare copper tubing, underground from 500 gal tank to house, was replaced with the yellow flex. Thats right, 1/4" copper tubing. Can you imagine? LOL The galvanized pipe coming out where the T&P valve normally goes looks like it has a schraeder valve and a pressure gauge installed - most likely to pressurize the system with air to proof the system for leaks. >> Hello, everyone! I've added a few posts to my blog in case anyone is >> interested in checking out the latest photos of our house that is [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > Gary > Quality Water Associates |
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