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Homeowner Forum / Construction / April 2006



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How to mount a no-arm 6" recessed remodel into a suspended ceiling tile

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bent - 28 Apr 2006 20:14 GMT
I am installing 2'x4' ceiling tiles; I need to do all wall L's, main T's,
panels, everything. I am then going to insulate the entire ceiling area with
Roxul Safe & Sound insul. batts. From Home Depot I purchased 6" Cooper
Lighting Halo Insulated Pots and Halo baffles. "Recessed Incandescent type
IC". Says they are good for right beside insulation.

H7RICAT is at the following link: <
http://www.haloltg.com/common/CLDetail.cfm?id=13878 >

The first .pdf says "Four remodel clips secure housing and accommodate ½"
and 5/8" ceiling material"

I previously (assumed) I would have to mount the light fixtures into the
2"x10" joist ceiling structure at the appropriate location, then install the
tile around the mounted light after cutting out the circles. Try to get the
right height, or change after.

The pot is just a single-walled semi-thick solid Aluminum shell, with a 10"
steel arm with shielded cable and pop-out box attached at the end. No square
shell, no arms. It looked easier to position and I do have a significant
space/orientation issue. These lights do not seem to have any supporting
points (I could create some). They do have clips near the flange edge where
it seems they clip on the outside of the ceiling, and the instructions show
pushing them into a completed ceiling after the wiring has been done hanging
from above. Is it right to install these lights like this into new ceiling
tiles? - so the light is clipped and held up completely by the ceiling
tiles. Or can I create my own mounts them? Or both? Or do I definitely need
another different light fixture - with arms, because it looks like I'd have
to disconnect the arm, and move it, or take it off; otherwise, I'll be off
in centering.

I hadn't really decided, but I was seriously thinking of using the
fibreglass-backed ceiling tiles, because they are more flexible, and you can
add 1" or more to the ceiling height. How about it?

It would seem easiest to just have to attach the fixture to a ceiling tile.
Can I jimmy my own (extra) support, maybe with rope, and an eye here and
there?
Doug B Taylor - 29 Apr 2006 01:09 GMT
> I am installing 2'x4' ceiling tiles; I need to do all wall L's, main T's,
> panels, everything. I am then going to insulate the entire ceiling area with
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
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Dear Sir -

You do not use re-model fixtures for 2 x 4 drop-in tile ceilings. The
re-model fixtures are designed to be used with drywall ceilings or similar
already existing, hard, fixed surface ceilings. Take the fixtures you have
back and get a refund.

Purchase the IC fixtures commonly called "new construction" type and make
sure you get the support bars for the fixtures. Support the fixtures from
the t-bar you have to install for the drop ceiling. The fixture housing
and/or the support bars will allow you to mount these fixtures such that the
"housing" is flush with the bottom of the drop-in tile. The "trim" will be
installed after the ceiling tile so you can cut the tile to accommodate the
housing opening. The proper trim will have a trim ring slightly bigger than
the opening in the housing to cover up the cut out in the tile.

Your process should be something like this:

1. Install ceiling tile grid.
2. Install and wire pot light housings on the above noted grid. Locate as
you wish.
3. Cut out and install ceiling tiles to suit pot light housing locations.
4. Install pot light trims.

Ceiling tiles themselves are NOT sufficient to support your pot lights. The
pot light housing should be supported by the metal grid for the drop ceiling
using the appropriate support bars.

A support system consisting of "rope, and an eye here and there" should only
be used if you plan on using bubble gum and shoe laces to support your t-bar
ceiling. Should that be the case it will not be long before you are cleaning
your ceiling up off of the floor, along with your pot lights.

Regards,

Doug
 
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