cedar shingle siding installation???

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joe - 20 Feb 2006 01:05 GMT

I'm somewhat familiar with isntalling cedar shingle siding, however
there's one or two aspects that I've never quite been able to get good
clear information about.

#1 On my cedar shake/shingle house, the shingles just butt right up
to the sides of such things as door trim/ window trim and corner
boards. There are no flashings and there is no caulk. I understand
that caulk is not practical in this application because cedars shakes
expand/contract so much. But is there some flashing that should be
used? I was told by a roofer/sider guy that its not necessary because
there's tar paper behind the shingles? I'm wondering because I am
about the re-side another house with shakes, and was hoping to find out
if there is a flashing for these situations...and if so how is it used?

#2--If I am residing a house with shingles....should I put the trime
around the windows and doors on first? Or should I wait and put them
on over the shingls?

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M&S - 21 Feb 2006 00:11 GMT

> I'm somewhat familiar with isntalling cedar shingle siding, however
> there's one or two aspects that I've never quite been able to get good
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> around the windows and doors on first? Or should I wait and put them
> on over the shingls?

This is a pretty sticky subject as it sounds like you are going to be
installing cedar shakes simply over a single layer of felt. While places
like the cedar bureau call out installing this way it is common to
install shakes either on cleats, or more common nowadays on a mat type
underlayment which will provide a drainage plane as well as allow for
air flow behind the shakes. This allows them to breathe, stay flatter,
last longer, move less, hold finishes better, and so on.

In the areas you mention in #1 you normally use splines around doors and
windows made either from felt or better yet a stick down product like
ice barrier. These splines serve the very purpose you are asking about.
If the caulk fails the splines are there to provide a plane for the
water to get out from under the siding. Installing splines without
removing the trim is impossible so its a tough thing if your not fooling
with the trim.

You also need to be installing head flashing at the tops and perhaps
some sort of kick out flashing at the base of your windows if you are
trying to do a top notch (only way when you are paying the $$$$ for
shakes) job.

Additionally it is not true as you say that you cant get a caulk that
will hold in these areas. A very high quality urethane caulk (7-10
dollars a tube, solvent cleanup) will perform very well on a nice tight
joint that sees *some* movement. These caulks will stretch like rubber
even after long periods. SolarSeal is a brand we often use. With a
little practice you can get a caulk joint that looks like a gasket and
will hold very well.

For #2 you absolutely install the trim first and side tight up to it.

I did a quick google and here is a site that shows you the spline and
head flashing detail.
http://www.masterwall.com/files/waterbarrier072104.pdf

Here is the Cedar Bureau's site on shake installation:
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/wall_manual/page04.htm

Mark

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Kickstart - 24 Feb 2006 01:36 GMT

as a contractor, I think you should not take this job, stick with what you
know, it's not a good idea to learn on someone else's home, unless your
leaving town when your done.
Pass the job on to the roofer/sider guy

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Homeowner Forum / Construction / February 2006

cedar shingle siding installation???