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Homeowner Forum / Construction / January 2006



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radiant heat under the fridge

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Barold - 26 Jan 2006 20:54 GMT
I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
comfortable.  We knew not to run the PEX too close to the toilet as I
heard the wax ring could melt, but we didn't bother to avoid running it
under kitchen cabinets or the fridge.

Our September electric bill was $40, October was $50, November was $60
and January 2006 is $80.  Other than a few Christmas lights, we have
not added any other electrical appliance.  I know electric rates have
gone up, but double the price since October seems extreme. The electric
bill indicates our usage has gone up significantly. The only thing it
may be is that the heat from the floor is causing the fridge to run
more often.  It's a quiet fridge so we have not noticed if it is
running more often.

Is it possible that a heated floor could cause the refrigerator to run
more often?  Would the remedy to this be to build an insulated "floor"
for the fridge to sit on to separate it from direct radiant heat?  Any
insight would be appreciated.
Rich-out-West - 26 Jan 2006 21:45 GMT
> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
> through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> for the fridge to sit on to separate it from direct radiant heat?  Any
> insight would be appreciated.

   It stands to reason that if the area directly adjacent to the
fridge is warmer, it will take more energy to keep things cool.  It
seems doubtful though that this is the sole cause of your higher bills.
Days are shorter in Jan than Sep, so you're burning lights more often.
Then you have those Christmas lights you mentioned.  It all adds up.
It could also be that the local utility charges more per Kw/Hr during
the winter months or more after you go over a certain threshold level
of use.  And of course there could be other factors at play as well if
you think things through carefully.

    This being said, in theory an insulated floor under the fridge
seems like a good idea.  When I designed the radiant heating system for
our house, I was forced to run lines under my refrigerator area,
because the only closet available to locate the floor manifold was
directly adjacent.  This actually meant that not only are there lines
under the fridge, but the lines are on a tighter spacing that normal
because they're just starting to fan out to the four loops serviced by
this manifold.  Knowing this could be a problem, I wrapped the pex
lines with pipe insulation until they were 3-4 feet from the fridge
area.  Even with this insualtion in place, we still had room for ~2in
of concrete above.  This seems to have worked fairly well.  When this
zone is going, the floor area past the insulation is warm to the touch,
while the area under the fridge stays noticably cooler.

   The problem in your case is the pain involved with trying to
insulate the floor after the fact.  It doesn't seem very practical at
this point.  You might mitigate the problem by investing in a
refrigerator with a top mounted condensor (like a Sub Zero or Jenn Air
built-in)  This would get the mechanicals up and away from the heat
source.  The problem is these monsters already use more energy due to
their size.  And the huge up-front cost would never be recouped through
energy savings alone.  Better start tuning of the lights when you leave
the room ;~)

Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA
Phil Scott - 27 Jan 2006 23:40 GMT
>> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot
>> water flowing
[quoted text clipped - 94 lines]
> Richard Johnson PE
> Camano Island, WA

Richard is about right..  the savings would be miniscule.

 There is probably enough room under the frig compressor and
condenser compartment though to fit a 1/4" thick piece of
urethane foam insulation... be sure to laminate aluminum foil
on each side of it so its not flammable.

There are some hair split fire code issues, fire rating issues
with such an approach though.  you could look into that.

There would be no savings at all when the house was not in
heating mode,  lets figure that at 50% of the year. and air
temperature under the frig at an average 10 deg F above room
air when the house is in heating mode...   that would mean the
warm floor would heat the refrig condenser air by about 1
degree. (heat transfer from the 80 degree floor to 70 degree
room)

a rule of thumb is that there is a 10% rise in operating costs
for each 1 degree rise in condensing temp.   So you would be
getting a 3% rise in current draw on the compressor on average
for 50% of the year.

Annually thats 1.5% rise... for the frig.

Lets figure run costs high on that at 20 dollars a month...
thats 240 dollars a year...  your added costs would be about 4
bucks a year due to the warm floor.

If however your let the condenser get dirty, and they all get
dirty, operating costs can easily double...

From that perspective the warm floor would not cost you much.

Phil Scott
HVAC refrigeration dood. since 200 bc.

Did you know that the Anheuser Busch micro breweries have
6,000 tons of refrigeration and that the suction gas piping is
24" in diameter...   fascinating ain't it.
Chas Hurst - 28 Jan 2006 00:53 GMT
Fer pity's sake. Put a piece or 2 of mineral board under the fridge.

>>> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
>>> through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
[quoted text clipped - 90 lines]
> refrigeration and that the suction gas piping is 24" in diameter...
> fascinating ain't it.
Barold - 30 Jan 2006 20:12 GMT
Thank you all for your input... must be those damn Christmas lights.
Barold - 30 Jan 2006 20:13 GMT
Thank you all for your input... must be those damn Christmas lights.
Rich-out-West - 26 Jan 2006 21:45 GMT
> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
> through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> for the fridge to sit on to separate it from direct radiant heat?  Any
> insight would be appreciated.

   It stands to reason that if the area directly adjacent to the
fridge is warmer, it will take more energy to keep things cool.  It
seems doubtful though that this is the sole cause of your higher bills.
Days are shorter in Jan than Sep, so you're burning lights more often.
Then you have those Christmas lights you mentioned.  It all adds up.
It could also be that the local utility charges more per Kw/Hr during
the winter months or more after you go over a certain threshold level
of use.  And of course there could be other factors at play as well if
you think things through carefully.

    This being said, in theory an insulated floor under the fridge
seems like a good idea.  When I designed the radiant heating system for
our house, I was forced to run lines under my refrigerator area,
because the only closet available to locate the floor manifold was
directly adjacent.  This actually meant that not only are there lines
under the fridge, but the lines are on a tighter spacing that normal
because they're just starting to fan out to the four loops serviced by
this manifold.  Knowing this could be a problem, I wrapped the pex
lines with pipe insulation until they were 3-4 feet from the fridge
area.  Even with this insualtion in place, we still had room for ~2in
of concrete above.  This seems to have worked fairly well.  When this
zone is going, the floor area past the insulation is warm to the touch,
while the area under the fridge stays noticably cooler.

   The problem in your case is the pain involved with trying to
insulate the floor after the fact.  It doesn't seem very practical at
this point.  You might mitigate the problem by investing in a
refrigerator with a top mounted condensor (like a Sub Zero or Jenn Air
built-in)  This would get the mechanicals up and away from the heat
source.  The problem is these monsters already use more energy due to
their size.  And the huge up-front cost would never be recouped through
energy savings alone.  Better start tuning of the lights when you leave
the room ;~)

Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA
M&S - 26 Jan 2006 23:22 GMT
> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
> through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> for the fridge to sit on to separate it from direct radiant heat?  Any
> insight would be appreciated.

It would take a few months to find out, but you could pick up a "watts
up" meeter (google) and install it on your fridge monitoring the
consumption to see how it varies from month to month. It would be the
only way to see if the fridge is the culprit.

Mark
Doug B Taylor - 27 Jan 2006 00:57 GMT
> I finished my home in April 2005, which is heated by hot water flowing
> through PEX tubing in the concrete floor.  It works fantastic, very
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> for the fridge to sit on to separate it from direct radiant heat?  Any
> insight would be appreciated.

Barold -

It is almost certainly NOT the radiant floor heating/fridge effect that is
causing such a significant increase in your electrical bills.

If your local electric supply rates have increased, as you imply, that is
part of the cause of your increased electrical bills.

The balance of the increase in your bills almost certainly IS increased
heating and lighting demands which typically occur during fall and winter.
Could be your floor heating system running more often for longer periods of
time (there are electrical components to this system even if it is
gas/oil/propane heated hot water), general lighting loads which increase in
fall/winter, some source of electric load you may not have noted (snow
melting cables in your driveway? pipe tracing on your water lines? heat
tracing on your roof edge? garage heating? electric snow blower?).

Almost all newer fridges are super insulated to keep cold air in, with the
result that they are also (flip side of same coin) super insulated to keep
hot air out. Do not waste time and money trying to fix a problem that is at
best very, very minor.

Regards,

Doug
rb - 27 Jan 2006 13:35 GMT
It would seem to me that if the coils on the unit are not dispersing
the heat, warmer environment due to the heating of the floor, the unit
has to run longer.  Units that are built in have vents that blow the
hot air out the front, many others do not.  I am not directing this
towards the electric bill but the burning out of the unit
 
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