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Homeowner Forum / Construction / December 2005tying into a 3" sewer line - zoeller toilet pump
i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy... I have to T into a 3" copper sewer line and tie a 2" pvc line from the toilet pump. i bought a 3" rubber sanitary T and a reducer I always have wanted to install one of them fancy toilets... I have no clue if this is right or not. I mean I don't want sh.t thrown all over these nice peoples walls... im going to cut the sewer line with a hacksaw, put the T... I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable christmasssss > i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy... > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable christmasssss I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are you sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the proper method. You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just spray sh.t on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub. The vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary tee and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the roof. "PipeDown" <nowhere@earthlink.net> wrote in message > You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just > spray sh.t on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub. The > vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary tee > and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the > roof. cool I hadn't seen 3" copper sewer line either, come to think of it, there is no pvc going to appliances, toilets are all on 2" copper, sinks drains are on 1 1/2" copper > I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very > unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are you > sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a > different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the proper > method. you just mount the toilet to a big plastic tank and put a pump inside the tank when the float comes up, the pump pushes the sewage out of the house the air vent on this unit is 3" pvc (coming out of the tank) i just cut through the outside wall and piped it out there there should not be any "stink" as long as the toilet stays flushed (and the pump is working) i suppose the vent is just so methane does not build up and cause an explosion >> I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and >> copper is a very [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > cause an > explosion thats bad. >> I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very >> unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > i suppose the vent is just so methane does not build up and cause an > explosion The purpose of a vent which is required for every drain connection is so that when and if water completely fills the pipe the pressurized (vacuum) air ahead (behind) of that water plug has someplace to go. If a vent were not there, this pressure bubble could vent at another drain causing the water in its trap to be expelled. For a toilet, there are perhaps a half dozen standard venting configurations (and probably a few more creative ones) depending on the location of the closet flange (toilet mounting ring) and the connection to to the sewer stack. >>> I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very >>> unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > ones) depending on the location of the closet flange (toilet mounting > ring) and the connection to to the sewer stack. I suppose a pressurized toilet is an exception, the vent location should be on the downhill side of a drain or it would fill upon flushing (it should always be dry). That is a more technical solution, a vent may not be required here but alternate venting downstream must exist. > I suppose a pressurized toilet is an exception, the vent location should be > on the downhill side of a drain or it would fill upon flushing (it should > always be dry). That is a more technical solution, a vent may not be > required here but alternate venting downstream must exist. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/sewage.html#QJ if you go there, look about 1/2 down the page on the right that's the toilet I installed... and, success today! I cut the 3" copper with a backward blade in a skill saw...it cut like butter. I finished with a hacksaw. the toilet works, it fills up to the wax seal before it starts pumping this is adjustable with the float switch inside the tank ~~~ what do you mean downhill vent, methane doesn't rise? EVERYBODY OUT OF THE HOUSE! > > "bebo" <1@1.com> wrote in message news:8S0qf.42499$eI5.14468@trnddc05... >> i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy... >> >> I have to T into a 3" copper sewer line >> and tie a 2" pvc line from the toilet pump. >> >> i bought a 3" rubber sanitary T and a reducer >> >> I always have wanted to install one of them fancy toilets... >> >> I have no clue if this is right or not. I mean I don't want sh.t thrown >> all >> over these nice peoples walls... >> >> im going to cut the sewer line with a hacksaw, put the T... >> >> I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable christmasssss >> >> > > I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very > unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are you > sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a > different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the proper > method. > > You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just > spray sh.t on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub. The > vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary tee > and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the > roof. I found some 3"? copper waste pipe in a 1950's era part of my house. > > > > i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy... > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable > christmasssss The branch on the tee better be up, not down. and you may also need a sewage rated check valve in the pumped line (it will say so in the instructions if thats the case) If the main sewage lines plugs down stream from your tee and the pump comes on it will blow sewage back up through existing toilet, unless thats clogged... then the sewage would blow out the sinks. A guy I worked for one time (old fart and a very smart guy generally), blew 1000 gallons of sewage up 4 floors of the JC Penny store in downdown sacramento about 40 years ago... he emptied 100 gallons of freon 11 into their basement sewage pump (sealed on top) the freon vaporized when it hit the warm tank water, and back flushed the sewage to all sinks, toilets, drinking fountains and vents in the building. You could try but I dont think you could beat that... the best you could do would be 40 gallons or so. Phil Scott > You could try but I dont think you could beat that... the best > you could do would be 40 gallons or so. > Phil Scott Thanks the one thing that is bothering me, the wash drain empties just below my T (it's tied right into the main copper sewer line) the top of the wash drain (where you hang the hose) is above my T gravity wise Im just thinking maybe the pump will push it on up through there... I even thought about a one way valve on the wash drain line There was a story on discovery channel about a ladies basement toilet. seems that the whole street was clogged at their main...big pressure was building. This ladies toilet was the lowest in the neighborhood...it bloed sh.t all over her basement...it was 3 and 4"'s caked throughout...she had been on vacation and came home and found it. >> You could try but I dont think you could beat that... the >> best [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > been on vacation > and came home and found it. There are a lot of ways to screw something up, then there is murphys law... and there is crap. That has a mind of its own. A situation like that can go totally south. The one way valves can stick open in cases like that. Anytime you have poop flowing up hill its a problem... its not natural. Anyone in business knows that it flows down hill... anyone with diarhea knows that. So some MORON makes a terlit that goes uphill!! Under pressure? Amazing. You could have gas or anything... someone could go in to use the loo and light a cigarette and it would be all over for them. Phil Scott |
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