Shingling out of a valley

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pegomes - 23 Sep 2005 23:12 GMT

I ran across this article
(http://www.roofer911.com/roofing_valleys.htm) that describes some ways
to shingle a valley and then work your way out from the valley.

This approach looks good, but I am wondering about the shingle offsets.
If you continue shingling out of the valley it looks like from the
photos that your edges of your shingles will only be offset by about 4
inches. This seems too close!

What am I missing?

Thanks for any help.

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Nehmo - 25 Sep 2005 17:58 GMT

A 4 inch offset for the side joints, horizontal distance from one side
joint to the one on the shingle above, is sufficient.
Pics of some patterns, including a 4 inch pattern:
http://www.professionalroofing.net/past/may00/qa.asp

If I were to comment on the pics on
http://www.roofer911.com/roofing_valleys.htm , I'd mention that it's
expensive to buy plastic roof cement in tubes and one-gallon containers.

The most interesting roofing service offered on that site is the thermal
imaging leak detection: http://www.roofer911.com/infrared_possible.htm
You could probably just get on the roof and hold the camera up with a
pole and have it connected to a laptop. But the cameras look expensive:
http://www.irisys.co.uk/data/thermalimaging.pdf

- pegomes -

> (http://www.roofer911.com/roofing_valleys.htm) that

it looks like from the

> photos that your edges of your shingles will only be offset by about 4
> inches. This seems too close!

Signature

-:||||| Nehmo Sergheyev |||||:-

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M&S - 25 Sep 2005 23:43 GMT

> I ran across this article
> (http://www.roofer911.com/roofing_valleys.htm) that describes some ways
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Thanks for any help.

The distance you offset is really based on only one factor. That is
whether you choose to follow the manufacturers specific guidelines or
opt to install differently based on your own experience or for some
other reason. If you dont follow their specific installation guidelines
you risk them attempting to not standing behind their warranty should
you have a problem.

Every shingle manufacturer calls out a different offset shown right on
the bundle. Using that sites installation technique exclusively may
cause some problems with a warranty issue from a manufacturer which
calls out a 10" offset (IKO).

We see shingles going down all sorts of ways other than those the
manufacturer calls out and its a judgment call we each have to make for
ourselves. Much of it is mere technicality but when your in a warranty
situation, should one arise, its nice to have clean hands because
installation is exactly as the manufacturer recommended.

Mark

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Nehmo - 26 Sep 2005 20:38 GMT

- M&S -

> Every shingle manufacturer calls out a different offset shown right on
> the bundle. Using that sites installation technique exclusively may
> cause some problems with a warranty issue from a manufacturer which
> calls out a 10" offset (IKO).

- Nehmo -
Shingle manufacturer multi-decade material warrantees are not like more
familiar warrantees like those for autos in that shingle warrantees are
never exercised. They are more of a competitive sales device than
anything, and I wouldn't base installation or purchasing decisions on
them.

Moreover, it's unlikely any manufacturer would object to a 4 inch
offset. Water would have a hard time angling sideways that far even on a
low pitch roof. The manufacturer you mention, IKO, tolerates 4" for
laminated shingles.

IKO http://snipurl.com/hy1c
"Laminated shingles must be applied with a minimum offset no less than 4
inches."

Signature

)|||(__Nehmo__)|||(

> We see shingles going down all sorts of ways other than those the
> manufacturer calls out and its a judgment call we each have to make for
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Mark

Reply to this Message

M&S - 26 Sep 2005 21:19 GMT

> - M&S -
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> "Laminated shingles must be applied with a minimum offset no less than 4
> inches."

In the same paragraph:

"Regardless of the shingle type, it is always best to follow all
application instructions printed on the shingle package. This will
ensure proper roof performance and finished roof aesthetics."

Your reply sums it up perfectly when you say "it's unlikely any
manufacturer would object". Unlikely is the pertinent part. As I stated,
it is an individuals decision as to how they decide to install.
Personally I have never had a roof warranty claim on a roof I have
installed but I have fellow contractors who have in addition to salesmen
from our lumber yards who have been involved in said claims. Both have
spoken numerous times about mfr. reps trying to deny or at least reduce
their liability with regards to a claim based on installation issues
which werent even relevant to the problem which initiated the claim. Of
course one can take all necessary legal action however if you choose to
follow their recommended guidelines implicitly you, and your customer,
have clean hands regardless of whether the rep. is a nice/fair guy, or
an a**hole trying to get out from under a claim or a portion of it.

As for water traveling 4" under a shingle that depends. Shingles with a
continuous adhesive strip can cause water which gets under a shingle to
travel a long way before it is shed to the shingle below. Technically,
though it would probably never happen due to leaks in the adhesive
strip, the water would have to travel the entire length of the shingle
to a joint to be shed to the shingle below.

I wasnt speaking to 4" being acceptable or not, I have no problem with
how you choose to install your roofs. Its a personal decision as to
whether you are willing to take on some of the liability should they
disagree with some part of your installation even though you may have
thought it "unlikely" or moreso unreasonable they would.

Mark

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Homeowner Forum / Construction / September 2005

Shingling out of a valley