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Homeowner Forum / Construction / August 2005



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Re-sealing asphalt shingles -- OK?

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tizzo - 27 Aug 2005 19:40 GMT
I live in Florida and I have a 10 year old roof that sustained some
hurricane damage in the September 2004 storms.  Roughly 1/4 of the
shingles on the roof have lost their seals -- IE you can stick your
finger underneath them and lift them up off the roof.  The past several
months of unusually hot weather, even for this region, have not caused
the shingles to reseal, indicating that they probably are not going to.

The roof has been inspected by several professionals, all of whom agree
that this is wind damage.  There is a discrepancy, however, in the
recommended method of repair.  Most of the roofers say that the
shingles in question need to be replaced, and that due to the large
number, the whole roof ought to be replaced.  The insurance adjuster,
citing a GAFMC installation manual, says that all of the shingles can
be hand-resealed with plastic cement.  He provided me with a few pages
photocopied from this installation manual as proof of this.  I read
through the information he provided, and it describes a procedure for
hand sealing NEW shingles that had never been sealed.  But it does not
address, one way or another, whether hand-resealing is appropriate for
shingles that have been torn free by wind, as these have.  In other
words, his evidence doesn't really back up what he's saying.

Therefore, I'm looking for some information to either support or refute
the adjuster's claim, since what he provided me does not appear to do
either.  Is it acceptable to repair a roof with the damage I've
described by resealing all of the loose shingles with plastic cement?
And can you point me to any official documentation so indicating?
Thank you in advance.

Tony
Phil Scott - 27 Aug 2005 20:28 GMT
>I live in Florida and I have a 10 year old roof that
>sustained some
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> indicating?
> Thank you in advance.

This sort of thing is often not documented.. but might well be
workable, try a few and see.    how long term the plastic
cement is, is another issue.  I would call the shingle mfgr
myself.

Phil Scott

> Tony
tizzo - 27 Aug 2005 20:36 GMT
My roofer says that he's done this on other houses, and that it seems
to hold for 3-6 months.  This seems consistent with what the GAFMC
documentation *did* say.  In the section labeled "when is it
appropriate to hand seal shingles", they mentioned when it is cold, and
when blow-offs occur before the shingle has sealed on it's own.  It's
not spelled out so as to be irrefutable, but it almost sounds like
they're describing the plastic cement method as a temporary, secondary
mechanical fix designed to keep the tar strips touching the layer below
until it gets hot enough for them to seal.

Anyway, workable isn't what I'm looking for.  My fear is that the
insurance company is trying to use this as a way to get out of
replacing the roof.  Their obligation, legally, is to make the roof
"like it was".  One adjuster says hand resealing with plastic cement
will do that, and all roofers say that it won't.  Each has interests
that could be behind what they're saying to me, so I don't really feel
that I can completely trust any of them.  That's why I'm looking for
objective information, preferably in writing.  Thanks for your
response.

Tony
RicodJour - 27 Aug 2005 20:39 GMT
> I live in Florida and I have a 10 year old roof that sustained some
> hurricane damage in the September 2004 storms.  Roughly 1/4 of the
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> And can you point me to any official documentation so indicating?
> Thank you in advance.

If the shingles are laying flat and just not sticking to the shingle
below, using roofing cement in a caulking gun is a quick way to seal
them down.  You can also use roofing cement and a margin trowel but
it's slower.  If they're not laying flat it's a bigger deal. The
roofing cement won't hold them flat until it dries, so you'd have to
weight them down.

Whether it makes sense to do it in your case would depend on the
conditon of those ten year old shingles.

R
Thomas D. Ireland - 27 Aug 2005 22:03 GMT
Have a look at a product called "Re-Roof". It is a new product that can
add 10 years to your roof. Also consider the roofing cement and caulking
you will want these products as well. These are all DIY's. When dealing
with professionals such as an insurance company you will likely want to
go with the professionals opinion.

Tom

: I live in Florida and I have a 10 year old roof that sustained some
: hurricane damage in the September 2004 storms.  Roughly 1/4 of the
: shingles on the roof have lost their seals -- IE you can stick your
: finger underneath them and lift them up off the roof.  The past several
: months of unusually hot weather, even for this region, have not caused
: the shingles to reseal, indicating that they probably are not going to.

: The roof has been inspected by several professionals, all of whom agree
: that this is wind damage.  There is a discrepancy, however, in the
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
: shingles that have been torn free by wind, as these have.  In other
: words, his evidence doesn't really back up what he's saying.

: Therefore, I'm looking for some information to either support or refute
: the adjuster's claim, since what he provided me does not appear to do
: either.  Is it acceptable to repair a roof with the damage I've
: described by resealing all of the loose shingles with plastic cement?
: And can you point me to any official documentation so indicating?
: Thank you in advance.

: Tony

--
tizzo - 27 Aug 2005 22:41 GMT
Thanks Tom.  My main problem is that the professionals are not all of
the same opinion.  I'm trying to find some kind of objective
information that doesn't have me relying on the opinion of anyone with
an agenda, one way or the other.  Any advice along those lines?

Tony
RicodJour - 28 Aug 2005 00:19 GMT
> Thanks Tom.  My main problem is that the professionals are not all of
> the same opinion.  I'm trying to find some kind of objective
> information that doesn't have me relying on the opinion of anyone with
> an agenda, one way or the other.  Any advice along those lines?

If the shingles aren't damaged and they're laying flat, the roof cement
will work.  There is no doubt about that, I've done it many times,
albeit on a smaller scale.

If you're looking for some irrefutable information source on gluing
down ten year old shingles loosened by wind, you're not going to find
it.  It sounds like you're looking for some assistance in arguing your
case with your insurance companies adjuster.

Private adjusters typically are veteran insurance company claims
adjusters who have gone freelance, and have expertise in negotiating
property claims to make sure you get the most out of your policy.

R
Thomas D. Ireland - 29 Aug 2005 07:55 GMT
What does your insurance guy say? If they are going to pay then it will be
up to them what work they will cover. I have done roofing professionally
and I do not have an agenda! The pros you have/will be talking to will
naturally want to know what the insurance company will cover and they will
also want to get as much of that money as they can. Getting an estimate
from your adjuster will be your first move likely! Hope this helps! Let me
know if you have any more questions!

Tom

: Thanks Tom.  My main problem is that the professionals are not all of
: the same opinion.  I'm trying to find some kind of objective
: information that doesn't have me relying on the opinion of anyone with
: an agenda, one way or the other.  Any advice along those lines?

: Tony

--
willshak - 28 Aug 2005 12:16 GMT
On 8/27/2005 2:40 PM US(ET), tizzo took fingers to keys, and typed the
following:

>I live in Florida and I have a 10 year old roof that sustained some
>hurricane damage in the September 2004 storms.  Roughly 1/4 of the
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
>  

About 15 years ago, I installed a skylight above a very dark stairwell
in my 20 year old home. My roof was shingled with Johns Manville
Midnight Black shingles. I had no spare shingles and I found out that
J-M no longer made that color, so I had to carefully remove the singles
in the area that I was going to install the skylight. After installation
of the skylight and flashing, I replaced the removed shingles around the
skylight and then used a caulk gun with a black tar-like shingle
adhesive to reseal the shingle tabs and edges along the flashing. They
have been glued down for 15 years now. Of course, I live in NY where
hurricanes don't happen very often, but we have had a couple (the last
one being Floyd in Sept. 99, where I lost a 50' wild cherry tree).

Signature

Bill

 
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