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Homeowner Forum / Construction / August 2005



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Bearing / Non-Bearing wall fit

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signaturefactory@signaturefactory.com - 24 Aug 2005 22:28 GMT
We are building a large new house.  The roof is constructed of large
beams (there are a number of ridges, most beams are 5"x20" LVL) and
engineered rafters.  At one point (of a large span) where a number of
beams meet there is a post that extends all the way down (24') to a
footing in the basement to carry the loads.  Many of the walls in the
upstairs (we are having cathedral ceilings everywhere) cross the beams,
and sometimes even run directly under the beams for various lengths but
on the plans these are all shown as non-bearing - and the plans show a
dropped ceiling with attic space as an option.  Our contractor has
commented a number of times about the fact that the walls he is putting
under the beams are helping to carry the load and should make the roof
that much stronger.  I have pointed out that the floor below these
walls was not necessarily designed to carry the load of the beams and
that the beams should be entirely supported by the post shown and
exterior walls.  He tells me that the floor is plenty strong to handle
it.

My question is what is the correct way to frame a non-bearing wall such
as one of those running under a beam, when you want to insure that it
will not be sharing in the bearing of the loads above it?
CWatters - 24 Aug 2005 23:11 GMT
> We are building a large new house.  The roof is constructed of large
> beams (there are a number of ridges, most beams are 5"x20" LVL) and
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> as one of those running under a beam, when you want to insure that it
> will not be sharing in the bearing of the loads above it?

This all sounds like a job for an Architect or a  Structural Engineer. Where
I live you have to submits plans and calculations for this sort of thing to
the local authority. We hired an SE to do them and his submission ran to
about 60 pages. Then as the house is built it has to be inspected to ensure
it's built as per the drawings.
signaturefactory@signaturefactory.com - 24 Aug 2005 23:18 GMT
All plans were made by an Architect along with Structural Engineer.
All calculations are done, my question is concerning the correct way to
frame the non-bearing wall to insure that it is not sharing load.  I
think this is a pretty general questions.  I live on a farm and there
are not building inspections required (although electrical and plumbing
are).
HerHusband - 25 Aug 2005 01:20 GMT
> All calculations are done, my question is concerning the correct way to
> frame the non-bearing wall to insure that it is not sharing load.

I'm no architect, but if the beams are properly sized, the non-bearing wall
shouldn't bear ANY of the weight. In other words, if you took the wall out
completely, everything should still be structurally intact.

I suppose if the beam deflects down slightly it could transfer some weight
to the wall, but I wouldn't think it would be significant enough to matter.

Putting a wall under the beam would only add the weight of the wall itself.  
No problem if it runs perpendicular to the floor joists. If it runs
parallel to the joists, you might need to add extra joists or blocking to
support the wall, but it shouldn't be supporting the structure above.

Just my two cents...

Anthony
CWatters - 26 Aug 2005 10:45 GMT
> > All calculations are done, my question is concerning the correct way to
> > frame the non-bearing wall to insure that it is not sharing load.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I suppose if the beam deflects down slightly it could transfer some weight
> to the wall, but I wouldn't think it would be significant enough to matter.

I think the is the joint - how you stop the bending of the beam cracking
whatever finish is applied to the joint area. I think I'd ask the Architect
or the SE to comment of come take a look.
Bob Morrison - 25 Aug 2005 15:08 GMT
In a previous post  wrote...
> My question is what is the correct way to frame a non-bearing wall such
> as one of those running under a beam, when you want to insure that it
> will not be sharing in the bearing of the loads above it?

The beams MUST be allowed to deflect vertically in order to carry loads.  
For properly sized beams, the deflection is small, but it MUST be allowed
to happen.  This has to do with physics and the principle of Work (force x
distance).  Basically it means that if there is no deflection, then there
is no load transfer to the beam in the from of bending stress.

A wall running parallel to and under a large beam should have an method to
provide stability to the top of the wall, but still allow deflection.  
This could be done as an upside down U-shaped piece of sheet metal that
gets covered.  I've even uses a series of lag bolts in a oversized hole
through the top plates, with the top plates being held below the bottom of
the beam a 1/2-inch or so depending on the expected deflections.

I recommend that you have the Structural Engineer do a brief inspection
and make recommendations.

Signature

Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

RicodJour - 25 Aug 2005 22:43 GMT
> In a previous post  wrote...
> > My question is what is the correct way to frame a non-bearing wall such
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I recommend that you have the Structural Engineer do a brief inspection
> and make recommendations.

Probably not necessary to have the engineer of record make an
inspection.  He owes you the detail drawing for the connection.  It
should have been detailed in the first place.  It's something he could
draw up in his office and send to you.

R
HerHusband - 26 Aug 2005 05:00 GMT
Bob,

> The beams MUST be allowed to deflect vertically in order to carry
> loads.  For properly sized beams, the deflection is small, but it MUST
> be allowed to happen.  This has to do with physics and the principle
> of Work (force x distance).

Interesting... I learn something new every day! :)

Thanks for correcting my error...

Anthony
CWatters - 26 Aug 2005 10:52 GMT
> Bob,
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks for correcting my error...

The wall should be built after the beam is loaded so that it's already
deflected.
Joe - 26 Aug 2005 13:20 GMT
The wall should be built after the beam is loaded so that it's already
deflected.
***************************************************************************************
If a snow load was figured in........you will have to wait a long time
before building that wall.  <g>

Signature

JerryD(upstateNY)

signaturefactory@signaturefactory.com - 26 Aug 2005 14:32 GMT
Bob, thanks for the information.  The wall is actually already in place
and was built right up to the beam.  The studs right now have very
little weight on them but the roof is yet to be shingled, and we do get
snow of course in this area.  I talked to the structural engineer and
he didn't seem overly concerned.
 
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