Railing construction question

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Mark - 24 Jun 2005 00:30 GMT

Hello.

I am building an outdoor porch railing, using ploughed cedar 2x4's
for the top and bottom rail. The balusters are the usual 2x2's, and
will be secured to the railing using 1x2 inset strips.

Like this:

http://www.canleyworks.com/temp/porch_rail.gif

My question is, how should I go about fastening this together?
For strength, I suppose I should run a screws through the inset
strip into the end of each baluster. I see several options for
preventing the balusters from rotating:

1. Use two screws in each end--four screws per baluster.

2. Use a single screw in each end, then add a couple of
shots from a nailgun to prevent rotation.

3. Notch the inset strips to accept the balusters.

Which do you guys suggest?

Thanks
-Mark

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BP - 24 Jun 2005 13:20 GMT

A square baluster will not rotate in a ploughed rail.
The inset strips fill the gap, and also provide uniform spacing. They are
tacked or glued into place.
The balusters can be secured with a single screw, top and bottom, or for a
better finished look, a couple of 10d finish nails on the top instead.

> Hello.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Thanks
> -Mark

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Mark - 24 Jun 2005 18:04 GMT

>A square baluster will not rotate in a ploughed rail.
> The inset strips fill the gap, and also provide uniform spacing. They are
> tacked or glued into place.
> The balusters can be secured with a single screw, top and bottom, or for a
> better finished look, a couple of 10d finish nails on the top instead.

Ok, so you're saying that the balusters should extend into the plough in
the rails, and the inset strips will be individual 4" lengths tacked in
between? I can see that. But doesn't that mean that any screws will
have to be drilled into the finished surface of the rails? And if I don't
do that, won't the entire assembly be rather weak as the rails will be
able to flex up and down?

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BP - 28 Jun 2005 22:28 GMT

>>A square baluster will not rotate in a ploughed rail.
>> The inset strips fill the gap, and also provide uniform spacing. They are
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> do that, won't the entire assembly be rather weak as the rails will be
> able to flex up and down?

Hey Mark, you still there buddy? Sorry, I've got a business to run too!
Yeah, I told you the way the "pros" do it. Homeowners, however, come up with
some amazing and creative alternatives. Some of these alternatives are truly
amazing and some are a common case of thinking way too much about it. Try to
fall somewhere in the middle.

Yes, if you use the screw in the "head rail" (top) it will be exposed. Most
guys have the painter caulk the holes and try and blend them in. I like to
sink a couple of 10d galvy finish nails through the head rail into the
balusters because the holes can be puttied and look better when finished.
The screws in the "shoe rail" (bottom) are OK because you can't see them
unless you are looking for them. So forgetaboutit.
The screws in the shoe rail are best because if some brat kid decides to
stand on the rail they will resist pullout better than nails. The head rail
may pull out in this case but it is an easy fix. You are compromising
strength for looks, like marrying a trophy wife. You want something you can
depend on? Forget the looks, go for tough! Pretend those caulked screws look
nice! Compliment them!!
Your idea of screwing the balusters to the fillet material and installing to
the rail has merit. But if you do this forget about the ploughed rail. They
invite rot anyway. Use an un-ploughed rail and tack the fillet run to the
top of the smooth shoe rail. Now you have strength and durability (but a
shitload of work!).

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Boat_dreams - 30 Jun 2005 06:09 GMT

Install both upper and lower rails on edge and lap them on the posts.
You get less rot and less sag plus you can lap the balusters for one
clean horizontal deck screw each top and bottom. Yes, this requires an
extra 2x6 cap rail; but in ten years you'll be glad you did it this way.
Regards,
Boat_dreams.

> Forget the looks, go for tough!

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Homeowner Forum / Construction / June 2005

Railing construction question