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Homeowner Forum / Construction / May 2005Another stair jack question
Here is a preliminary drawing for my stair jack: http://www.canleyworks.com/temp/kitchen_porch.jpg There isn't a great deal of connection area between the stair jack and the joinst. . .only about 4" on the face of the joist, plus the 1-1/2" on the bottom. Any suggestions on a better approach? You may safely assume that I do not care to replace the 2x10 joist with a 2x12. Thanks -Mark Install another 2X10 under the joist and you will have all the nailing you need.  SignatureJerryD(upstateNY) There isn't a great deal of connection area between the stair jack and the joinst. . .only about 4" on the face of the joist, plus the 1-1/2" on the bottom. Any suggestions on a better approach? You may safely assume that I do not care to replace the 2x10 joist with a 2x12. Thanks -Mark > Install another 2X10 under the joist and you will have all the nailing you > need. There's nothing to connect it to on the house side. The ledger is a 2x10, and it's already occupied with the existing joist. I suppose I could get some more bolts and 4x4s into the act to support the additional 2x10, but _damn_ this is getting too complicated. > Here is a preliminary drawing for my stair jack: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > safely assume that I do not care to replace the > 2x10 joist with a 2x12. I'm not clear on what you're building. Is that a stair landing or a larger deck not drawn to scale? You show the one stringer - I assume that there's another one on the far right side, and, another assumption, that it's up agains the house. I also don't know the width of the stair itself and how many stringers you plan on using. It's kind of tough to give a definitive answer with partial information. There are a bunch of ways to do what you want to do. The easiest is to use joist hangers and use a skirt board to cover them up if you don't want to see them. You could cut down the existing joist, or notch it, if it's not a large span (can't tell from the drawing) and extend the stringers to the next joist back, or use blocking between the joists and attach the stringers into that. You could probably even get away with just toenailing it using box nails. I can see another stair in the background, so I'm assuming this is a secondary access set of steps, right? There won't be a huge load - probably on the order of 40 or 50 pounds of shear per nail maximum. If you're moving a refrigerator in via the deck, use the other set of steps. ;) R I lay no claim to being much of woodbutcher, but, couldn't you just marry another board outside the stringer? No tread notches.....it would 'appear' to give more than sufficient bearing against the joist. Dan > Here is a preliminary drawing for my stair jack: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Thanks > -Mark >I lay no claim to being much of woodbutcher, but, couldn't you just marry > another board outside the stringer? No tread notches.....it would 'appear' > to give more than sufficient bearing against the joist. Yes, I am going to add a 2x4 below the 2x10. At one end, I can fasten it to the 4x4 post. The other end is the house, and the ledger is only 2x10 as well, so I can't fasten the extra 2x4 to the ledger. So my plan is to cut a piece of 4x4 about 12" long, bolt it to he inboard end of the 2x10 joist, leaving four inches hanging below to which the 2x4 can be attached. Framing is visible in the photo at the bottom of the list: http://www.canleyworks.com/porch.html -Mark > Yes, I am going to add a 2x4 below the 2x10. At one end, I can fasten > it to the 4x4 post. The other end is the house, and the ledger is only [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > http://www.canleyworks.com/porch.html It looks like you have about a 5' span. Why did you go with 2x10 framing? 2x6s would have been fine - you can go up to 8' span with a 100# live load. You can extend the stringer at the post, toe nail to the rim joist and attach the extension directly to the post. It looks like you can't have the house-side stringer too close to the house due to the electric service and the leader. That stringer can be attached to the first joist inboard in the same way. R > It looks like you have about a 5' span. Why did you go with 2x10 > framing? 2x6s would have been fine - you can go up to 8' span with a > 100# live load. I tend to overbuild things, especially if it's something I haven't done before. I feel a special incentive to do so when I'm replacing something that was so poorly built that I nearly fell through it. > You can extend the stringer at the post, toe nail to the rim joist and > attach the extension directly to the post. It looks like you can't > have the house-side stringer too close to the house due to the electric > service and the leader. That stringer can be attached to the first > joist inboard in the same way. Yes, the treads will have to overhang the inboard stringer/stair jack/ whatever you call it, by about four inches. I'll notch the treads around the electrical service and the downspout, and keep a few extras for when I upgrade to 200 amp and relocate the service drop. -Mark http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/framecarp/technique/stairs/outdoor.htm > Here is a preliminary drawing for my stair jack: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Thanks > -Mark Use a strap hanger attached to the back of the rim. Bend and nail along the underside of the stringer. > Here is a preliminary drawing for my stair jack: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Thanks > -Mark > Use a strap hanger attached to the back of the rim. Bend and nail along the > underside of the stringer. That's a nice clean way to do it. Mark, just make sure you use the shorty joist hanger nails and angle the nails as you drive them in to take up the slack in the strap. R > That's a nice clean way to do it. Mark, just make sure you use the > shorty joist hanger nails and angle the nails as you drive them in to > take up the slack in the strap. I already used joist hangers. It worked fine. |
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