Hello,
I need to frame a tub surround to support a Kohler K-1314 Symbio
corner tub. This unit sits in the corner and has a curved front edge.
My plan is to build a 2x4 stub wall that supports the deck and then
tile the wall and deck. Since this wall rests on a slab and it
obviously could see moisture from the tub, I need the framing to be rot
resistant. If it was a straight wall, I'd just frame it out of
pressure treaded material, sheath it in cementious backer board, and
call it good. It's the curvature that has me scratching my head.
The radius is fairly gentle - I'd guess around ten feet. I'm
thinking of framing it using p.t. 2x4 "studs", with angled p.t. blocks
nailed in between. I think I'll then try sheathing it with
Hardi-Backer as this seems a bit more flexible than the grey cement
type (Wonderboard). I'm just not sure if I'll be able to pull it into
the curvature without cracking it through.
I've heard of guys wetting down sheetrock to get it to take a
curve. I'd imagine this should have no effect on backer board though
(if it's doing it's job anyway...). Anyone do a wall like this? Is
there a better way to go about it?
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA
Phil Scott - 27 Apr 2005 18:40 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Richard Johnson PE
> Camano Island, WA
the hardi backer board might take the bend if you cut into
strips. you could experiment with various widths to see what
happens. you might also be able to spot fill behind the
board beteen the studs with expandable foam to give it more
support.
you could call the hardi backer board people on the phone the
would know or have alternatives.
Phil Scott
P.Fritz - 27 Apr 2005 18:40 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Richard Johnson PE
> Camano Island, WA
I would suggest cutting the curve from P.T plywood........two layers will
give you equiv. of a 2 x 4 sole plate. Possibly two layers of the 1/4"
hardi backer, or since it is not a 'wet' location you could possibly go
with green bd, but it would not be desirable.
DanG - 27 Apr 2005 23:12 GMT
Make the top and bottom plate of pressure treated ply. Pressure
treated studs, go to 12" centers. Use either 1/2 or 5/8 Durock,
comes in 4x8 sheets. It will make your curve just fine. If you
have a radical curve, go here:
http://www.unifixinc.com/products/permabase-flex.htm
(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> Richard Johnson PE
> Camano Island, WA
Rudy - 28 Apr 2005 06:27 GMT
> My plan is to build a 2x4 stub wall that supports the deck and then
> tile the wall and deck. Since this wall rests on a slab and it
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> call it good. It's the curvature that has me scratching my head.
> The radius is fairly gentle - I'd guess around ten feet.
I've had experience in bending drywall..wetting it and waiting works.
They do sell 1/4" drywall thats even easier to bend but I dont know if its
available in brown or greenboard.
I had a similar tub to frame on concrete slab (but not curved) Used green
2X4 plate, std 2x4 uprights and green 2x4 top plate.
I decked it with 1/2" green PT ply, then added the tile. As the plumber
said, that was ample as you dont expect a lot of water to be expelled from a
soaker (no shower) tub and the tile and grout sealer should ensure that any
inadvertent splashes go nowhere but the floor.
You can bend the green ply around your radius and screw it down as you go.
R
NuckinFutz - 29 Apr 2005 22:52 GMT
> I had a similar tub to frame on concrete slab (but not curved) Used green
> 2X4 plate, std 2x4 uprights and green 2x4 top plate.
> I decked it with 1/2" green PT ply, then added the tile. As the plumber
> said, that was ample as you dont expect a lot of water to be expelled from
> a soaker (no shower) tub and the tile and grout sealer should ensure that
> any inadvertent splashes go nowhere but the floor.
He dont know my 4 year old twin boys does he????