Hello,
I need to frame a tub surround to support a Kohler K-1314 Symbio
corner tub. This unit sits in the corner and has a curved front edge.
My plan is to build a 2x4 stub wall that supports the deck and then
tile the wall and deck. Since this wall rests on a slab and it
obviously could see moisture from the tub, I need the framing to be rot
resistant. If it was a straight wall, I'd just frame it out of
pressure treaded material, sheath it in cementious backer board, and
call it good. It's the curvature that has me scratching my head.
The radius is fairly gentle - I'd guess around ten feet. I'm
thinking of framing it using p.t. 2x4 "studs", with angled p.t. blocks
nailed in between. I think I'll then try sheathing it with
Hardi-Backer as this seems a bit more flexible than the grey cement
type (Wonderboard). I'm just not sure if I'll be able to pull it into
the curvature without cracking it through.
I've heard of guys wetting down sheetrock to get it to take a
curve. I'd imagine this should have no effect on backer board though
(if it's doing it's job anyway...). Anyone do a wall like this? Is
there a better way to go about it?
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA
RicodJour - 29 Apr 2005 22:25 GMT
> I need to frame a tub surround to support a Kohler K-1314 Symbio
> corner tub. This unit sits in the corner and has a curved front edge.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> (if it's doing it's job anyway...). Anyone do a wall like this? Is
> there a better way to go about it?
I'd approach it one of two ways:
Forget the PT, go with 2x4 framing and two layers of 3/4" ply for the
plates. Cover it with 3/8" or 1/2" plywood. Then use Wedi board for
the backer board. Very easy to work with. Score the front, bond the
wedi to the ply with thinset, then fiberglass tape and thinset the
front side cuts. If you install the Wedi board with polyurethane
caulking at all seams, it's waterproof. Then the only area of concern
is the caulking at the tub/platform.
Other option. PT framing and ply as above. Then use paper backed
metal lath.
http://www.ctioa.org/reports/fr18.html
Read the note from the Ceramic Tile Institute at the bottom - not a
problem, just a caveat.
Use some 3/4" square strips top and bottom as screeds then build up two
or three coats of mortar/stucco. The stucco is waterproof, so you
could forget the PT with that way. The screed/mortar method will give
you a perfectly true curve.
R