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Homeowner Forum / Construction / February 2005Waterproofring addition foundation
I am going to build an addition with most likely full basement foundation made from cinder blocks. What's the best way to waterproof the foundation. My home basement foundation is also built from cinder blocks with no waterproofing as far as I know. I usually do not have any leaks as long as gutters are cleaned. However I want to make maximum effort to ensue the finished basement under addition will be maximum waterproof. I read that many advanced waterproofing and damproofing technique require specialized equipment and must be performed by trained personnel. They are also quit expensive. What's the best waterproofing method besides obvious pipe drainage that I can safely and effectively do myself? > I am going to build an addition with most likely full basement > foundation made from cinder blocks. What's the best way to waterproof [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the best waterproofing method besides obvious pipe drainage that I can > safely and effectively do myself? Water proof. but dont rely on water proofing to keep the basement dry, as when it leaks its not repairable...and with ground shifting etc you can get breaks in any water proofing.. also hydraulic water pressure can go under the water proofing and come up inside of it. So *drainage is your hot option.. at the surface, and below the edge of the basement slab...investigate that. If you use pipe go huge with it. 6" would be the smallest... or you can use large crushed rock as a drain bed... your tactic depends on the conditions. and think 30 years ahead on the issues..roots clogging the drain etc... Phil Scott Along with those options you should first make sure your masons use full mortar joints. Could you explain to me what full mortar joints means? > Along with those options you should first make sure your masons use > full mortar joints. By full mortar joints I mean enough mortar should be placed on the block so that it uozes out of the joint when pressed against the next block. There should be no holes or gaps of any kind even before the first coat of parging. Sometimes the end of the block is shaped in a way that makes filling the joint solid impractical but the exposed surface should be flush using a sponge float or tooled. > By full mortar joints I mean enough mortar should be placed on the > block so that it uozes out of the joint when pressed against the next > block. There should be no holes or gaps of any kind even before the > first coat of parging. Sometimes the end of the block is shaped in a > way that makes filling the joint solid impractical but the exposed > surface should be flush using a sponge float or tooled. Pour a concrete foundation. For a truly waterproof foundation. build the whole thing on a "mud slab" about 2" thick. Lay a .060" EPDM membrane on the mud slab and start up from there, pouring the footings and slab against the mud slab and lapping and sealing up the walls at joints. so that your whole exterior below grade area is completely sealed. If you have a high water table, be sure that the total weight of your basement structure exceeds the uplift exerted by the ground water. IOW, hire a Structural engineer. EDS |
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