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Homeowner Forum / Construction / December 2003Drywall repair
I have a small section of drywall (about 6" square) where the paper has been torn off. Is it ok to just spackle and sand it or should I cut out the section and insert a new piece of drywall and spackle. Thanks Dave >From: dbz9@comcast.net (Dave B) > >I have a small section of drywall (about 6" square) where the paper >has been torn off. Is it ok to just spackle and sand it or should I >cut out the section and insert a new piece of drywall and spackle. The latter. The compound doesn't stick to the gypsum very well. R > I have a small section of drywall (about 6" square) where the paper > has been torn off. Is it ok to just spackle and sand it or should I > cut out the section and insert a new piece of drywall and spackle. > Thanks > > Dave Spackle is not meant to be a hole filler. Square up the area, cut a new piece to fit and fix it the right way. > I have a small section of drywall (about 6" square) where the paper > has been torn off. Is it ok to just spackle and sand it or should I > cut out the section and insert a new piece of drywall and spackle. > Thanks > > Dave There's no need to replace the drywall for such a small area. Apply 1 or two coats of drywall joint compound over the drywall according to the manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine. > > I have a small section of drywall (about 6" square) where the paper > > has been torn off. Is it ok to just spackle and sand it or should I [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > two coats of drywall joint compound over the drywall according to the > manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine. No compelling NEED, perhaps, but . . . . . . why not? I'm not saying my search was all inclusive, but I find nothing in the USG Gypsum Construction Handbook that recommends or even suggests application of joint compound directly over gypsum panel core material having missing or even damaged paper facing. There is instruction for compound directly over scored and scratched paper, such as blade marks; however, for cuts that penetrate the paper (such as running by the opening for an electrical outlet) the handbook recommends joint compound and joint tape. It would seem to me to be common sense to use joint tape over a portion of a gypsum panel having missing or damaged paper facing. If a satisfactory "patch" could not be made with joint tape, a repair "plug" would be necessary, which also would utilize joint tape on its perimeter. Equally sensible is taking into account the difference between materials with directly applying joint compound to core material. Even if there were a 100% satsifactory bond (questionable), the dissimilarity of materials would not bode well for a continuing bond. Just because core material bonds well with paper and joint compound bonds well with paper, there is nothing in the handbook that assures me that they bond well to each other, maintaining not only the bond but consistant reactions to temperature, moisture, etc. My question is: why skip the joint tape? If you had three thousand such patches, I could perhaps see the economic gain . . . but for one patch! Maybe I'm too pickey and am missing the bigger picture. Jim >From: "Intrigued" forumonly@nospam.spm > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >two coats of drywall joint compound over the drywall according to the >manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine. Compound doesn't stick to the gypsum core and any repair will be short-lived. In other words, a waste of time. At the very least the exposed gypsum should be covered with joint tape. R > >From: "Intrigued" forumonly@nospam.spm > > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > R I agree with you. I was thinking that only the top layer of paper had been torn off, which is a fairly common type of damage to drywall. If the paper has been entirely torn off and the gypsum is exposed, then yes, it is certainly worth covering the exposed gypsum with joint tape. If you can see the gyp, rough it up and use Durabond with tape over it. That stuff has strong adhesion and can be made in small batches. It it's only the paper, and the gypsum isn't bare, put some mud on it, and tape the surface, then put some finish on it later & sand. > If you can see the gyp, rough it up and use Durabond with tape over it. That > stuff has strong adhesion and can be made in small batches. > > It it's only the paper, and the gypsum isn't bare, put some mud on it, and tape > the surface, then put some finish on it later & sand. That should work. However, the applier should keep in mind that the gypsum core material is friable and to be particularly careful in dusting any loose crumbs or dust away before application of the Durabond. Also, should be quite careful in that application not to disturb the core material. Don't try top work the Durabond "into" the core but skim it lightly. You aren't filling but applying a binder that, hopefully, will be stable during application of joint tape and joint compound. The same care should be exercised in applying the joint tape and compound. Still seems like a lot of effort to avoid patching. Jim >From: "Js Walker Lazenby Jr" aajwlazenby@gbronline.com >Date: 12/29/2003 8:01 PM Eastern Standard Time [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > >Still seems like a lot of effort to avoid patching. For smaller patches I like to cut a piece of drywall about 1.5" larger on all sides, cut the back to fit the hole and strip off the excess back paper and gypsum core in the overlap area. This leaves a one piece patch with the overlap paper facing acting as the joint tape. A quick hit with Durabond and a top coat of a fast setting vinyl spackle such as Redi-Patch and you're good to go. Takes about 20-30 minutes start to finish and it's ready for paint. R > > >From: "Intrigued" forumonly@nospam.spm > > > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > should > > be covered with joint tape. A method with which we've had success is to coat the damaged area with pigmented shellac (KILZ or Zinser), let it dry, then skim float it with joint compound. Texture and paint.  SignatureDave'n'Houston |
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