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Homeowner Forum / Home Automation / August 2008X10 Wall switch (WS467) question
I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a standard incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the switch does not contain a neutral so I cannot use a Fluorescent compatible switch. Since there only has to be one incandescent bulb in the circuit for the X10 switch to work, I replaced 3 of the lamps with compact fluorescents, the theory being that if one incandescent blew out, the other would allow the system to continue working. Now, I would like to replace one of the remaining incandescents with a CFL, leaving only one. Would there be any negative consequences to doing this? I know that if the incandescent blew, the switch would not work until I replaced the incandescent. But could there be any other harm done if the incandescent bulb blew when the lamps were on?  SignaturePeace, BobJ > I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a standard > incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the switch does not [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > replaced the incandescent. But could there be any other harm done if the > incandescent bulb blew when the lamps were on? THe CFL's would probably overheat & burnout. However if you use a CFL that states it is dimmable you'll be OK. I have only seen them in 100 watt versions & are 3 or 4 time more expensive. >> I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a >> standard incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > THe CFL's would probably overheat & burnout. I do not believe that this is accurate, I have been using the 3 CFL/2 incandescent combination for over two years. As long as one does not dim the lights, there seems to be no problem. In any case they do not make dimmable CFLs in reflector form needed for use in tracklights. > However if you use a CFL that states it is dimmable you'll be OK. > I have only seen them in 100 watt versions & are 3 or 4 time more > expensive. Dimmable CFLs do not by themselves work with single wire (no neutral) switches such as the WS467. This is because those switches require a trickle current running through the circuit in order to allow activation of the switch, something that even dimmable CFLs do not provide. Hence my use of an incandescent bulb in parallel with the CFLs. SignaturePeace, BobJ >>> I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a >>> standard incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > the switch, something that even dimmable CFLs do not provide. Hence my use > of an incandescent bulb in parallel with the CFLs. If you are 100% sure that no one or thing will ever send a dim command to that device then I stand corrected. Many houses have been burned down & people electrocuted because someone thought they would be the only one using that device & performed a non recommended procedure. And yes dimmable CFLs are indeed available. http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com/dimmable-br30-light-bulb.aspx So I stand by my post!Do NOT connect a non dimmable device to a dimming device or circuit. > I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a standard > incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the switch does not [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > replaced the incandescent. But could there be any other harm done if the > incandescent bulb blew when the lamps were on? Track lights and CFL's... Most track lighting I've seen looks pretty "hokey" with CFL's installed... And I would *never* put an X-10 dimmer rated for incandescent lights on a circuit with CFL's. What are you going to save?? Unless you leave the lights on 24/7, not a heck of a lot. >> I have a 5 unit track light (lamps in parallel) controlled with a >> standard incandescent X10 wall switch (WS467). The box holding the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > rated for incandescent lights on a circuit with CFL's. What are you going > to save?? Unless you leave the lights on 24/7, not a heck of a lot. First to the savings: (not counting the environmental savings) of the use of 4 CFLs (@15W) and one incandescent @75W (=135W) vs. 5 incandescents = 375W @ $.23/kWh, 10 hours/day is about $17/month. A heck of a lot. Secondly, the current crop of R20 CFL reflector bulbs looks exactly the same when lit as the incandescent R20. (Thanks Ronbo for showing me the dimmable R20 CFLs). Lastly, setting aside the dimmer issue, the is no problem running a CFL on an incandescent only switch AS LONG AS THE IS AT LEAST ONE INCANDESCENT bulb in parallel on that switch circuit to provide a path for the trickle current running through the circuit when the switch is "OFF". I learned that from an expert on this site several years ago. SignaturePeace, BobJ > First to the savings: (not counting the environmental savings) of the use > of 4 CFLs (@15W) and one incandescent @75W (=135W) vs. 5 incandescents = > 375W @ $.23/kWh, 10 hours/day is about $17/month. A heck of a lot. We pay a lot less for electricity in my neck of the woods. About $.11/kWh. I don't recall ever having my track lighting on for ten hours straight (I don't get to watch that much TV). :-) > Secondly, the current crop of R20 CFL reflector bulbs looks exactly the > same when lit as the incandescent R20. (Thanks Ronbo for showing me the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > running through the circuit when the switch is "OFF". I learned that from > an expert on this site several years ago. Well there's a reason why it's rated for "only incandescents". I don't think the manufacturer tests it with CFL's in any configuration (and I don't think UL would either). Use the switch type required for your installation and you won't have a problem (or be required to "mix" technologies to try and make it work). >> First to the savings: (not counting the environmental savings) of the >> use of 4 CFLs (@15W) and one incandescent @75W (=135W) vs. 5 [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > $.11/kWh. I don't recall ever having my track lighting on for ten hours > straight (I don't get to watch that much TV). :-) 23¢/KWh is the cost of GreenPower in NYC (1¢ more than conventional Con Ed). We have tracklighting in our Bedroom/Den. They can be on as much as 16 hours per day (not sure what TV has to do with it) >> Secondly, the current crop of R20 CFL reflector bulbs looks exactly the >> same when lit as the incandescent R20. (Thanks Ronbo for showing me the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > installation and you won't have a problem (or be required to "mix" > technologies to try and make it work). As I explained in the original post, all X10 fluorescent switches require both a neutral and hot connection. I do not have a neutral wire in the switch's electrical box. SignaturePeace, BobJ Well, I think I have the answer to my original question. I am going to keep two incandescents in the circuit. The individual track lights have an on/off switch on them so I can take them out of the circuit (the equivalent of the bulb) blowing for testing. With only one incandescent , if I take it out of the circuit when the power is on, the CFLs continue to work without any problem. However, if I use the switch to turn them off, the CFLs flicker very quickly. The same occurs if I remove the incandescent from the system when the power is off. While the chance that the incandescent bulb will fail while it is "off" is very remote, it still is a risk that cannot be taken. So I will leave it as 3 CFLs/2 incandescent mix so there is always a backup. SignaturePeace, BobJ >>> First to the savings: (not counting the environmental savings) of the >>> use of 4 CFLs (@15W) and one incandescent @75W (=135W) vs. 5 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > We have tracklighting in our Bedroom/Den. They can be on as much as 16 > hours per day (not sure what TV has to do with it) BC's power is water (hydro) based. We have plenty of both (water & power). I have a big ceiling fan in my bedroom (no track lighting). Track-lighting is in the movie room (which co-incidentally has a TV in it). :-) |
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