Questions about Smartlinc 3-way Companion (Slave) Switches

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eegorr - 22 Apr 2007 06:32 GMT

Does anyone know how these things work? Smarthome has discontinued the
2382W but I have some 1135W switches I am trying to get to work with some
23885W relay switches.

I am trying to replace two manual 3-way switches controlling a couple of
floodlights in a hall. I am using the relay switch because I have replaced
the bulbs with flourescents. I am able to control the load properly with
the 23885W but have been unsuccessful in getting the 1135W working with it.
The manual for the 2384W (http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2384.pdf) refers
to the 1135W so I figured it would work with the 23885W as well.

As I said, the relay switch is controlling the load fine by itself, but I
need a switch at the other end of the hall as well. I have tried two
different 1135W companion switches and neither one will operate the load via
the 23885W. The black wire of the 1135W is connected is to 120V, grey
(there is no white wire) to neutral, and yellow is connected via a runner
back to the yellow wire on the 23885W. Here is what I am seeing.

1) The nightlight LED (at the top of the switch) does not light on the
1135W, whether or not the yellow wire is connected. Is this right, or
should this LED be lit whenever power is connected?

2) What kind of signal is sent out via the yellow wire? Is it a DC level or
a pulse, or something else completely different. What should I look for?

3) Is there something I can do to the yellow wire of the 23885W to make sure
that the companion switch connection to it is operational?

Any other troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

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Dan Lanciani - 22 Apr 2007 07:53 GMT

| Does anyone know how these things work?

The slaves for the original SwitchLincs were the same as PCS's (and a
couple of other brands); in fact, they used to ship the PCS version
before they had their own. A slave sends positive or negative half
cycles on the yellow wire depending on which way you push the paddle.
This is implemented with two diodes.

| Smarthome has discontinued the
| 2382W

It's kind of strange since the link on the 23885's page still points
to the 2382. More strange is that the 2382's page doesn't list the
23885.

| but I have some 1135W switches I am trying to get to work with some
| 23885W relay switches.

I'll have to check if I have any 1135s so I can see if they are the
simple two-diode ones.

[...]

| 1) The nightlight LED (at the top of the switch) does not light on the
| 1135W, whether or not the yellow wire is connected. Is this right, or
| should this LED be lit whenever power is connected?

The original slaves that I describe above had the LED on all the time; it
was just a night light. The 2382's page mentions blinking in response to
X10 commands, so it might be something different. It could also be a
mistake taken from the generic SwitchLinc description. If the 1135 is
the original slave the LED should be on as long as power is connected,
independent of what you do with the yellow wire.

| 2) What kind of signal is sent out via the yellow wire? Is it a DC level or
| a pulse, or something else completely different. What should I look for?

See above for the original version at least.

| 3) Is there something I can do to the yellow wire of the 23885W to make sure
| that the companion switch connection to it is operational?

Without knowing for sure what the intended slave switches do it might
be risky.

Are you sure the slave is getting power?

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

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Dan Lanciani - 23 Apr 2007 02:50 GMT

| | Does anyone know how these things work?
|
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
| cycles on the yellow wire depending on which way you push the paddle.
| This is implemented with two diodes.

[...]

| I'll have to check if I have any 1135s so I can see if they are the
| simple two-diode ones.

Ok, I don't. But I did find a genuine 2382W and popped it open. It
uses the two-diode scheme described above. There is also a 33k series
resistor (which is probably in the others and I just forgot).

| [...]
|
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
| the original slave the LED should be on as long as power is connected,
| independent of what you do with the yellow wire.

The LED in this 2382W is across the line with a series diode and pair
of dropping resistors. So it would be on all the time and the text on
SmartHome's page is probably just a mistake.

So, if the 1135 is something completely different then you can always
get a PCS of Lightolier slave. Otherwise maybe there is a wiring problem.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

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Homeowner Forum / Home Automation / April 2007

Questions about Smartlinc 3-way Companion (Slave) Switches