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Homeowner Forum / Lawn and Garden / September 2008best value water tanks??
Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really confused what to get, I want the best value tank that will last at least 20 yrs. Anyone know any bargains out there?? There are a few sellers on EBAY but worried buying sight unseen. If I connect it to the growing shed and not the house do I still get a govt rebate? Any tips appreciated. George > Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really > want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > George In my view the polymer ones are best. The polymer is UV stablized and they have been in use for long enough to be sure that they will actually last. Also they come in various colours and don't need painting. Concrete will crack (especially on clay soil) and are very heavy, and galvanised iron will rust (especially near the sea or in a polluted area). I have three polymer ones from Bushman and I am happy with them. As these things are rather large you need to include delivery when comparing prices. The price per kilolitre decreases with tank size. Something you need to work out is how in advance is how to re-arrange your roof plumbing to capture the maximum amount of water, this is not so easy if it was built to discharge at 3 or 4 different places. The simple solution is to block the ends or downpipes where you don't want the water. This is not ideal as some of the guttering is likely to fall the wrong way this can shorten its life and accumulate muck as pools will form at the low points where the water can no longer escape. Also if all your roof water comes down to a single pipe the guttering is very likely to overflow in heavy rain as the pipe will be inadequate. This will waste water and may damage your house. If you are not experienced in this you may need a plumber. David > In my view the polymer ones are best. The polymer is UV stablized and > they have been in use for long enough to be sure that they will actually > last. Also they come in various colours and don't need painting. Concrete > will crack (especially on clay soil) and are very heavy, and galvanised > iron will rust (especially near the sea or in a polluted area). I have > three polymer ones from Bushman and I am happy with them. Just to add 2c to the discussion. If you are in a place bordering bushland, you might want to reconsider poly tanks if you are relying on them to assist in fire fighting, but if that is a serious consideration, then you'll have a diesel powered pump in a brick enclosure and roof sprinklers as well I guess. I'm also thinking about repairing them. The old gal (new = colorbond) could be easily repaired with a piece of tin and sticky goo. they seem to rust out in the bottom if never cleaned out. I guess you'll need to be able to fibreglass to properly repair a poly tank (anyone done it). Generally get the biggest tank you can and make sure the ground under it is VERY stable and compacted. After you work out how to get the tank into place, you also need to investigae all the costs. If you are going for the rebates,then you have to hire professinals (plumber and electrician(?) AFAIK to sign off. > Something you need to work out is how in advance is how to re-arrange > your roof plumbing to capture the maximum amount of water, this is not > so easy if it was built to discharge at 3 or 4 different places. The > simple solution is to block the ends or downpipes where you don't want > the water. Start from the top. Work out how to keep leaves out of the gutter, but make sure you can clean/flush the gutter as they are not the only crap that gets their (all filters have small bits fall through, plus flower parts, bugs, etc). Then have a leaf diverter below the outlet and work out where the leaf diverter is going throw the leaves and a bit of moisture. The "sydney standard" says I should have 3x100mm down pipes. Like everyone else, I have 2x90mm, but my front downpipes are long horizontal runs down each side of the house. Different yes, but I'd loose most of my water if I didn't. Until SWMBO agrees to replace the front lawn with a mega tank, then it stays that way. Long horizontal runs are leaf catchers, which is why I mentioned the two steps above. I also have a first flush diverter (put T vertical just before the downpipes(2 on each tank) enter the tanks(2). lentildude <lentildude@hotmail.com>wrote: >Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >George http://www.duraplas.com.au/?gclid=CPehqMng65UCFQJNagodGmsMeA Great to deal with. If you are looking for rebates then "play it straight", anything else may well not realise your expectations. There is no requirement in Qld to advertise the exact location and hydraulics for the purpose of claiming a rebate. -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ g'day george, around the 22 to 25k litre size are agood size you could go to around the 32k size if you have capacity to do so that is space. i find dealing with the long time in business rural tank makers is always better their product has stood the test of time and their prices aren't directly driven by the gov rebate like those johnny come lately city makers. they will also site the tank(s) where you want it/them so long as you have access. the supplier should also be able to sell you a pump as part of the deal, i would suggest a 4 tap pump that will be able to service the whole house if need be, they cost around the $600 mark, we also now ahve a preferenc to air bladder type pressure pumps, now got no faith in these electronic controlled pressure devices. and if you need ot buy that cheap as floating ball cock type diverter. snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len & bev -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ forgot to say yes polymer tanks >Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >George With peace and brightest of blessings, len & bev -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ Check out how long each sort is guaranteed for. That is interesting reading. > Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really > want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > George g'day jules, yes look for the warranty most offer 25 years BUT! no good having a 25 year warranty if it is a johnny come lately tank maker in the city who most likley won't be around in 10 years let alone 25 years. that is why i suggest seek out the rural makers (they deliver their tanks over a wide range eg.,. bundaberg poly tanks they deliver from a line that runs out from rockhampton to emerald and down qld then to northern nsw, and they charge no delivery or siting fees. i live in brisbane and they delivered to us same price as anywhere, just they work for a full load. >Check out how long each sort is guaranteed for. That is interesting >reading. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> >> George With peace and brightest of blessings, len & bev -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ >Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >the growing shed and not the house do I still get a govt rebate? Any >tips appreciated. The poly tank does seem reliable and robust and is easy to transport and move if you decide it's original placement is not quite right. I'm not sure whether they have been around long enough to be confident that they'll last as long as the gal tanks or the precast concrete ones in the sun (e.g., 75 years, whatever). Certainly, most say they are UV-stabilised but whether some withstand direct sun better than others who knows? Instead of 'having all your eggs in one basket' you can have multiple tanks, but you'll probably find that the rebate is available only on the first, so install the biggest capacity tank first. Identical capacities come in different shapes, and naturally you'd buy tanks that sit no higher than your roof gutters (unless you intend some clever pumping during rain). It is feasible to bury the lower portion of a tank to allow use of a taller one, but there is always the chance that it will float up in the hole if the tank is empty when the hole fills during a storm. It's instructive to examine brochures from a number of poly tank manufacturers. If you are getting a tall tank, you'd want to make sure that its wall thickness increases towards the base of the tank. If you have a high house and want to raise the tank onto a stand, then the stand is likely to cost more than the tank! But a high tank means that you are not held hostage to a pressure pump for gardening, and a reliable 240 supply during hosing down during bushfire weather. The poly tanks are happy to sit on a bed of builder's sand (the stuff that has clay in it, and sets like cement with time). Make sure that the edges can't get eroded over the years, and protect the tank from accidental scraping from passing tractors, etc. Pressure pumps, while giving the convenience of mains pressure, have a sinister side: while you are at work they can completely empty your tank, and if you are really unlucky, dump it all onto your bathroom floor. An advantage of placing the pressure pump where you will hear it in operation is so that in the middle of the night you can ask yourself, "Why is that pump going?!" and in short time discover that someone has left a garden tap turned on. There have been cases during drought of someone returning home to find that their precious store of rainwater has been spirited away by a tanker truck during their absence.  SignatureJohn Savage (my news address is not valid for email) >>Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >>want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > that their precious store of rainwater has been spirited away by a tanker > truck during their absence. Anyone who buys a gal-tank these days has rocks in there heads. A gal tank might last 10 years, and it might not. if it remains full it will last if it's half empty it won't. The thing will start to pin-hole within 5 or 6 years, regardless of wether it has a plastic liner or not. As for concrete tanks, Sure there OK, IF you can afford a large crane to install the thing and if you can get the thing into the back yard in the first place. Poly tanks are the way to go. As for being thicker at the base, that's a load of bullshit, and the guy that suggested that has no bloody idea. How do I know all this. I've been on tank water for the last 25 years, and all by tanks are now Poly. Our local company are offering a 10.000 litre tank [Duraplus] plus a pressure pump, delivered and placed for $1700. Beat that. In fact if you build a new home in the country, your required to install a 10.000 litre tank for your local Fire brigade , No tank , no completion certificate onyour home from the council. bassett "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au>wrote: >>>Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >>>want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] >it's half empty it won't. The thing will start to pin-hole within 5 or 6 >years, regardless of wether it has a plastic liner or not. Words I would have written were I sure they would be heard :) Any gal tank needs rendering to make a solid investment. A skill long lost I believe? I looked at a product similar to the tanks in the link. They rely heavily on the liner, too much do I believe. http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/go/product/aquaplate-steel-for-water-tanks > As for concrete tanks, Sure there OK, IF you can afford a large crane to >install the thing and if you can get the thing into the back yard in the >first place. Expense is the killer for that option, and the fact that once down it is unwise to attempt to move them. Ask me how I know. > Poly tanks are the way to go. As for being thicker at the base, that's a >load of bullshit, and the guy that suggested that has no bloody idea. Ditto for the hydraulics John is on about. A simple "on timer" will rectify pumpout potentials. >How do I know all this. I've been on tank water for the last 25 years, and >all by tanks are now Poly. Our local company are offering a 10.000 litre >tank [Duraplus] plus a pressure pump, delivered and placed for $1700. >Beat that. Our two 20K jobbies ran to just over $4500 delivered (2005). With the water crisis the same deal is more than $6K today. Mind you I spent another $1500 doing hydraulics and catchment. Cheap though compared to a dam which was the other option. >In fact if you build a new home in the country, your required to install a >10.000 litre tank for your local Fire brigade , No tank , no completion >certificate onyour home from the council. Before any Rural FB got to most places around here the fire would have consumed all. That trick with the rose petals? That does work, or you having a legpull? I have a small grove of pawpaw and the buggers eat me out unless I sit up with the shotty. It's also a bit of a bastard biting down on the odd pellet in a sweet juicy chew. The dog did take care of most of them but sadly he went to the Big Kennel. His progeny is not partial to possum it seems. We have a number of roses, never noticed any blooms missing. -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message > "John Savage" <rookswood@suburbian.com.au> wrote in message >>>Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >>>want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. (snip) >> The poly tank does seem reliable and robust and is easy to transport >> and move if you decide it's original placement is not quite right. (snip) >> It's instructive to examine brochures from a number of poly tank >> manufacturers. If you are getting a tall tank, you'd want to make >> sure that its wall thickness increases towards the base of the tank. (snip) > (snip) As for being thicker at the base, that's a load of bullshit, and > the guy that suggested that has no bloody idea. > How do I know all this. I've been on tank water for the last 25 years, and > all by tanks are now Poly. What rot. Tanks with thicker plastic at the bottom and lower part of the walls is preferred by experienced rural dwellers as many farmers have found that poly tanks that aren't thicker on the bottom and lower walls split. "FarmI" <ask@itshall be given>wrote: >"bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message >> "John Savage" <rookswood@suburbian.com.au> wrote in message [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >preferred by experienced rural dwellers as many farmers have found that poly >tanks that aren't thicker on the bottom and lower walls split. What is it with you? Are you just thick, or are you on a mission to prove Oz farmers are thick? Go read ISO 9001, get an education in engineering.. anything! -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ > "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message >> (snip) As for being thicker at the base, that's a load of bullshit, and >> the guy that suggested that has no bloody idea. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > preferred by experienced rural dwellers as many farmers have found that > poly tanks that aren't thicker on the bottom and lower walls split. Name a brand of tank that has a thicker wall at the base, As for splitting that's only likely if you attempt to move the thing while partly full, and most of the reputable brands have a 25 year guarantee >> "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Name a brand of tank that has a thicker wall at the base, Bushman David >> "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Name a brand of tank that has a thicker wall at the base, Never heard of google? I just did a quick search and Clark Tanks, Toowoomba Plastics polytanks, Rainwater Tank Company, Action Tanks and Lifestyle tanks were some of the ones that popped up whihc all claim that the thicker lower walls is adds strength. and of course such a claim amkes sense given that is where the maximum pressure would be. And David mentioned Bushmans. I didn't see those tanks in my hunt, but it was only a very quick and dirty google. As for splitting > that's only likely if you attempt to move the thing while partly full, and > most of the reputable brands have a 25 year guarantee As a number of people have already pointed out, a 25 year guarantee means little as numerous people have found out over the years for all sorts of reasons and for all sorts of products. And there can be multiple failures for tanks and moving a half full tank may not be one of them. >Anyone who buys a gal-tank these days has rocks in there heads. Maybe, maybe not. The OP didn't say exactly what he/she wanted it for or where he intended to locate it. But he did indicate that he lived in the mountains. I do know that after house fires there are usually two structures left standing: the firebrick chimney, and the gal tank, and no one has successfully seen out the loss of a house in a firestorm by taking refuge in their chimney! > As for concrete tanks, Sure there OK, IF you can afford a large crane to >install the thing and if you can get the thing into the back yard in the >first place. The OP never mentioned a yard, or a back yard, AFAIR so I made no assumptions. When I was buying a tank 4 years ago, for the size we wanted we could get a prefab concrete tank delivered ready to site on a lowloader with crane for about the cost of a poly tank half its capacity. The concrete tank likewise had a long life guarantee, and a guarantee that it would not be cracked during install. I may be wrong, but I reckon that a cement tank should keep the water cooler, in scorching summer heat, than does a PVC tank. But I would agree that todays steel tanks are probably a mere shadow of the quality of those that were manufactured 50 years ago. Though they must still offer some advantage or they wouldn't be still being sold. Fire resistance or melting point may well be one. I think it cost around $500 for our pressure pump; quite a robust unit and of capacity more than required for 98% of the time but the tank was to be used for house, laundry and 2 garden taps simultaneously at times. SignatureJohn Savage (my news address is not valid for email) > If you have a high house and want to raise the tank onto a stand, then > the stand is likely to cost more than the tank! But a high tank means [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > edges can't get eroded over the years, and protect the tank from > accidental scraping from passing tractors, etc. I high tank that gives gravity flow is also limited in volume by the distance from the roof to the stand. > Pressure pumps, while giving the convenience of mains pressure, have Mains pressure will be a big expensive pump. Cheaper ones with less than mains pressure are OK for the garden. > a sinister side: while you are at work they can completely empty your > tank, and if you are really unlucky, dump it all onto your bathroom > floor. An advantage of placing the pressure pump where you will hear > it in operation is so that in the middle of the night you can ask > yourself, "Why is that pump going?!" and in short time discover that > someone has left a garden tap turned on. This is true. You must make sure your plumbing is good, especially polypipe joints are not as reliable as metal. As well as wasting water and soaking somewhere you don't want soaked a leak or tap left on may burn out the pump motor if it runs dry. My garden tank is turned off at the valve and the motor switched off when not in use for this reason. David . >> Pressure pumps, while giving the convenience of mains pressure, have > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > David What a load of paranoid rubbish, how do you think it works for people with only a tank water supply and a pressure pump. And a modern pressure pump is worth something like $120 , or there free when you buy some tanks. They don't need to be big or expensive. So tell us , how long have you had a tank water supply. Your playing games with a piss arsed little tank and a garden hose. You have no bloody idea. All my solar water fittings are poly type and I,ve never had a problem. with water pressure blow outs. bassett >> This is true. You must make sure your plumbing is good, especially >> polypipe joints are not as reliable as metal. As well as wasting water [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > What a load of paranoid rubbish, how do you think it works for people > with only a tank water supply and a pressure pump. The same way it does for for my 45 kl house system which is on all the time. But the plumbing there is high pressure polymer or copper and has been pressure tested and it is protected by the house structure. I know people who have had exactly the problem that I described with garden and stock systems, this is not something that I imagined. I don't know of a case where the motor burnt out personally but my plumber advised me that it can happen. > And a modern pressure pump is worth something like $120 , or there free > when you buy some tanks. > They don't need to be big or expensive. For the garden no they don't need to be big or high pressure and my 10kl system isn't. But the cheapos don't give mains pressure. I didn't say the previous poster needed a big pump I did say a little one doesn't give mains pressure. > So tell us , how long have you had a tank water supply. Since I built the house. Your playing games > with a piss arsed little tank and a garden hose. Why go to the gym when you can get all your exercise jumping to conclusions? Why the intemperate language? You do seem to have rather an emotional investment in your limited experience. You have no bloody idea. > All my solar water fittings are poly type and I,ve never had a problem. > with water pressure blow outs. Good for you but I don't think that proves very much in this context. Have you had a horse decide to play with your plastic fittings? They have big teeth that can disconect a waterer that is not well shielded. I doubt the previous poster will have this problem, I am just pointing out there are risks outside a domestic system. Perhaps carelessly driving a stake through a buried pipe is a more likely example. Poly fittings are simply not as reliable as metal or the crimped sort on high pressure tube, especially the push fit types (as opposed to nut and olive) that are mainly used on 12, 19 and 25 mm poly pipe which are common sizes for garden use. Some push joiners will blow out just on a low pressure pump without outside interference unless they are also clamped. Add together the lower reliabilty of the (most common) fittings and that there are other hazards found out doors and there is a real risk of pumping a tank dry due to a leak. David "bassett" <bassett@bassettskennel.com.au> wrote in message > "David Hare-Scott" <secret@nospam.com> wrote in message >>> Pressure pumps, while giving the convenience of mains pressure, have >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> burn out the pump motor if it runs dry. My garden tank is turned off at >> the valve and the motor switched off when not in use for this reason. > What a load of paranoid rubbish, how do you think it works for people > with only a tank water supply and a pressure pump. I live, and have lived, with tank water supply and pressure pumps for about 4 decades. I thought that what David said made sense. > And a modern pressure pump is worth something like $120 , or there free > when you buy some tanks. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > games with a piss arsed little tank and a garden hose. You have no bloody > idea. Based on my 4 decades of living with water tanks and owning 2 farms which are both on tank water, I'd say there was nothing wrong with his advice or comments. > All my solar water fittings are poly type and I,ve never had a problem. > with water pressure blow outs. Lucky you. We've had lots of incidences of water loss and for various reasons. I've just counted how many water tanks we have on our 2 farms. We have 7. All but one are concrete. We have 2 tanks on the other farm (both concrete) - they gravity feed the house and garden there. When the header tank runs low we use a fire fighting pump to move water from the tank on the house up to the header tank on the hill. At this farm we have 3 concrete water tanks solely for house water. In addition, for the garden and very occassional stock use, I have one concrete tank and the plastic tank. These are supplied with water from a dam and a bore. We have 3 pressure pumps and a fire fighting pump. We've never had a problem with the fire fighting pump but have had to replace all three pressure pumps. We've lost 2 full tanks of house water (that I can recall) and lost so many tanks of gardening water that I wouldn't be able to give even a rough guesstimate of the number. Reasons include: cow eating poly pipe, cow eating tank fitting, stock trough failure due to cow eating fitting, stock trough failure due to stock trough fitting failure, pump failure, multiple and differing human failures. sh.t happens. <snip> > We have 2 tanks on the other farm (both concrete) - they gravity feed the > house and garden there. When the header tank runs low we use a fire [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > sh.t happens. Interesting thread, despite the arguing :) Dare I ask about pros and cons of the various brands of pressure pumps commonly available? Are they all more-or-less the same or do some stand out as better (price ranges being similar). More importantly - any to stay away from? Cheers Thanks everyone for all the posts, looks like plastic is the way to go, but I was asking about best value - Im on a budget of about $2000. Want to get the biggest tanks I can get delivered for that. No pump, I live on a slope so will gravity feed driplines. Dynaplas seem to have a store on ebay! delivery syd is only $95 looking at this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4350L-RAIN-WATER-TANK-COULOURBOND-CREAM-inc-TAP-SCREEN_W0 QQitemZ190252433288QQihZ009QQcategoryZ149207QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1 742.m153.l1262 They seem to be joining 3 tanks via polypipe to make up 4350l of storage. Splitting storage into 3 tanks must be easier to install and handle but wondering if there is a disadvantage. sellers store http://stores.ebay.com.au/yourippa-Truck-4wd-car-van thanks George > Thanks everyone for all the posts, looks like plastic is the way to > go, but I was asking about best value - Im on a budget of about $2000. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > storage. Splitting storage into 3 tanks must be easier to > install and handle but wondering if there is a disadvantage. I must admit that I wouldn't be keen on the polypipe connections. The upside is that they are visually reasonably good looking. I must also be getting old and tight because for the amount you have allowed, we got a 9,000 ltr concrete tank not so many years ago. I have been planning to make up at least one of what the Poms would call "water butts" from used 220 ltr olive containers and chemical containers like these: http://cracker.com.au/canterbury-bankstown-sydney/household-furniture-for-sale/o ffice-furniture-equipment-for-sale/rain-water-tanksdrumsbarrels-storage-containe rs/392521755/advert.htm I even have the olive barrels which IIRC correctly cost me $20 each, and the taps which have a gasket on either side and a screww that tightens up and forms a seal on each side of the barrel wall. All I have to do is drill a hole. Just haven't got around to finding my "round tuit" tool. > Thanks everyone for all the posts, looks like plastic is the way to > go, but I was asking about best value - Im on a budget of about $2000. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > thanks > George Bunnings have a 5000 litre job for $880. 2 of them and a bit of change. -- Posted on news://freenews.netfront.net - Complaints to news@netfront.net -- Hi, 2 x $880 Bunnings tanks will give me 10000l for $1600 (.16/l) probably the best Ill do at this price. thanks for the info! George > > thanks > > George [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > - Show quoted text - > Hi, 2 x $880 Bunnings tanks will give me 10000l for $1600 (.16/l) > probably the best Ill do at this price. > > thanks for the info! > > George Not a problem may even be getting 1 for myself >> > thanks >> > George [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> >> - Show quoted text - -- Posted on news://freenews.netfront.net - Complaints to news@netfront.net -- tuppy <george@joho.com>wrote: >Thanks everyone for all the posts, looks like plastic is the way to >go, but I was asking about best value - Im on a budget of about $2000. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >thanks >George George, First up and yes, !!harsh!!, using Goggle Gropers as Usenet access is not smart, at all. Swapping out Posting Identity is the second not so smart thing to do. You confuse readers and make work for those following _your_ train of thought. Play nice and you get the best results for _your_ work. Savvy? Now 2000 dollars_?_ for what you are asking is just fairyland stuff. Some poly fittings cost $30 each, for starters! What you are best doing is calculating exactly what your use of water from your project is going to be. Work form there. Not "price" or "budget". You might find your expectations and your "budget" are miles apart. And, I would say to you this is where most (if not all) of the responses thus far have gone completely wrong. Like, having a cow eat your irrigation simply because you did not think of the possibility, and then built in the wrong material and/or design is bloody hilarious to read. Likewise is the Bullshit posted on "four decades of tank". All that tells me is the poor stupid bastard never learnt a thing first time around. You go build whatever you like George. its a free country and your dollars, but I would offer you will get no guidance worth a gnats fart from responses (beyond mine) worth a f.cking god-damn. Get back to basics, George.. like you are going to gravity feed, and need no pump, yes? Fine, how then are you going to fill the tank or tanks? Got a spring above head? How do you control trash, clays? You are going to rely on rainfall? Good luck. You are in Tully then? I have lived in Tully, and supplied a domestic dwelling with tank water. Forget what the "Golden Boot" brigade tell you.. you will run out of water, ask me how I know. Rely on rainfall to supplement a home today with all its expectations of the Y generation (breeding Y++ sprogs) and you are headed for disaster. Or a lot of tearful kids coming home from school crying of "I am a dirty kid cos my clothes are dirty".. or whatever the Persil brigade of +Y2000 drill into their kids. And, and IF you are buying or thinking of buying from E-Bray then you truly are a brain damaged git of the first order!!! I will close on that, hang with the thought. May well be the best message you get from "aus.gardens"? -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 17:16:09 +1000, wrote: > George, First up and yes, !!harsh!!, using Goggle Gropers as Usenet access > is not smart, at all. "Goggle gropers" is usenet terryc <newssixspam-spam@woa.com.au>wrote: >On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 17:16:09 +1000, wrote: > >> George, First up and yes, !!harsh!!, using Goggle Gropers as Usenet access >> is not smart, at all. > >"Goggle gropers" is usenet I agree, groping cokebottle view as it is. Then there is Usenet. -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ > They seem to be joining 3 tanks via polypipe to make up 4350l of storage. > Splitting storage into 3 tanks must be easier to install and handle but > wondering if there is a disadvantage. The best storage is the largest, tallest, circular tank you can install in he space. Anything else is inefficent use of land space or an attempt to maximise storage in weird spaces (side walkways, etc. "Jeßus" <nonewhatsoever@all.org> wrote in message > Dare I ask about pros and cons of the various brands of pressure pumps > commonly available? > > Are they all more-or-less the same or do some stand out as better (price > ranges being similar). More importantly - any to stay away from? Can't really help you too much there. Onga and Davey seem to be the most common round here and we've (so far) had no problems from the Onga pumps we have. > "Jeßus" <nonewhatsoever@all.org> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > common round here and we've (so far) had no problems from the Onga pumps we > have. No worries at all and thanks, it was mainly pure curiosity for the time being. I have a 5000 gal tank here, couldn't even tell you the brand of pump offhand (was already set up when I bought the property). But I am thinking about a much larger tank later down the track - I have a permanent creek down the back of the property - water quality appears excellent (although I haven't had it tested). Its the same water that they use for the town water anyway. Beyond the creek is all uphill to about 50m, so I'm thinking gravity feed would work extremely well. > We have 3 pressure pumps and a fire fighting pump. We've never had a > problem with the fire fighting pump but have had to replace all three [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > sh.t happens. I certainly hope it did, with little bits of poly fittings in. Or do cows not survive eating plastic bits? SignatureChookie -- Sydney, Australia (Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply) http://chookiesbackyard.blogspot.com/ "Chookie" <ehrebeniuk@fowlspambegone.com.au> wrote in message >> We have 3 pressure pumps and a fire fighting pump. We've never had a >> problem with the fire fighting pump but have had to replace all three [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > not > survive eating plastic bits? We haven't lost one yet to poly pipe but I know of producers who have had thier animals die from eating the stuff. The sodding things just love it for some reason. They also like to chew bones too. > If you have a high house and want to raise the tank onto a stand, then the > stand is likely to cost more than the tank! Why not just sit it on the ground and buy a taller tank? Pressure is a factor of the "head" (height of water above the tap), assuming you've used at least 1/2" pipe and not a long run. > But a high tank means that you > are not held hostage to a pressure pump for gardening, and a reliable > 240 supply during hosing down during bushfire weather. Reliable mains and bushfires do not go together. >> If you have a high house and want to raise the tank onto a stand, then the >> stand is likely to cost more than the tank! > >Why not just sit it on the ground and buy a taller tank? Pressure is a >factor of the "head" (height of water above the tap), assuming you've >used at least 1/2" pipe and not a long run. Best to ask those who sit tanks on stands. But a tank sitting on the ground right outside your window can block a lot of view. If yard space is at a premium, a water tank on a high stand can still allow you to see out, and it will not block cooling breeze from that direction. Security would come into it, too, you may not want a tank to block your line of sight to the garage, street, neighbours, etc., or to offer cover to some one trying to break in. Where the stand already exists, it might have a garden or storage shed underneath. Some farm tanks have a gravity fed shower underneath or alongside. Filling a high tank from a well or an underground cement tank might be preferred as a fire safety measure, offering a supply of low-pressure water even should the electricity fail. >> But a high tank means that you >> are not held hostage to a pressure pump for gardening, and a reliable >> 240 supply during hosing down during bushfire weather. > >Reliable mains and bushfires do not go together. Which is why I didn't mention mains. SignatureJohn Savage (my news address is not valid for email) > Best to ask those who sit tanks on stands. There ain't no such one thing. In urbn settings the household tank was usually situated so the bottom was equal to or slightly higher than the kitchen sink tap and the top allowed a gutter feed. most tanks were also around the back of the house. I am yet to see any modern installaions where the rainwater tank is in the front yard. Anything else involves pumping. I wrote: >If you have a high house and want to raise the tank onto a stand, then >the stand is likely to cost more than the tank! But a high tank means [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >edges can't get eroded over the years, and protect the tank from >accidental scraping from passing tractors, etc. On reflection I think I used "decomposed granite", not builder's sand. >There have been cases during drought of someone returning home to find >that their precious store of rainwater has been spirited away by a tanker >truck during their absence. Not the whole tank went missing, just its contents. :-) SignatureJohn Savage (my news address is not valid for email) > Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really > want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > George Has anyone heard the conspiracy rumour that one the Government has a sufficiently large list of tank owners, via the rebate, they can start to tax the rain water the runs off your roof. They It may be wisest to cop the full cost and keep quiet Signaturefaeychild faeychild <phobos@deimos.invalid>wrote: >> Hi, I live in the lowerbluemountains SYD, (10 mins Penrith) and really >> want to splurge on a large watertank 9000 - 20000litres. Really [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >sufficiently large list of tank owners, via the rebate, they can start to tax >the rain water the runs off your roof. They Not as such - or as obvious - but there is indeed provision to apply tariffs to rainwater collected for redistribution (sale) as irrigation. The legislation looks at the mineral and pH levels, providing a revenue stream for the value as fertilizer and/or nutrient introduction. >It may be wisest to cop the full cost and keep quiet Certainly if you are 'giving' your neighbour a bucket or so of water from your tank to water his strawberries with... keep quiet about it. -- ()-().----. '. ' ' . ' .. '. ^/ \"/` \___ ' ;_._______/ ' . . .. . ............................ |
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